Welcome! Please use the navigational links to explore our website.
PartsASAP LogoCompany Logo (800) 853-2651

Shop Now

   Allis Chalmers Case Farmall IH Ford 8N,9N,2N Ford
   Ferguson John Deere Massey Ferguson Minn. Moline Oliver

Attention Forum Users: On the 28th of December 2023 at 9:00am Central Time, we will be taking the forums down for maintenance while we prepare the new forums for your use. Please click here for more information.

Discussion Forum
:

Broken G headbolts

Welcome Guest, Log in or Register
Author 
Marvin

01-14-2000 22:45:10




Report to Moderator

Have a "49" G, with 3 broken headbolts. One is flush, the others stick up about .5". Any ideas or tricks? Marv




[Log in to Reply]   [No Email]
Ray

10-03-2000 09:40:30




Report to Moderator
 Re: broken G headbolts in reply to Marvin, 01-14-2000 22:45:10  
I have a stipped headbolt on my VW. I have tried welding an other tool to it but I dont have access to a big enough one to get it hot enough to melt all the way through. Is there any other way, anyone knows of, I can remove it besides using a drill press? Like an easier way?? If so, it would be highly appriecated. THANX!!



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Joe Green

01-17-2000 12:43:05




Report to Moderator
 Re: broken G headbolts in reply to Marvin, 01-14-2000 22:45:10  
On the bolts sticking out, try the old cycle of heat, cool, tap,tap; heat, cool, tap,tap. All threads have a clearance that is reduced to zero by rust in the gap. Heating will expand the bolt in the hole crushing the rust, which takes up more space than the steel it replaced. Cooling it will open the gap back up and give you some clearance to work with. When a bolt is torqued down, the tension on the bolt reduces the clearance on the topside of the threads to zero and puts all of the clearance on the bottom side of the thread. Tapping on the end of the bolt, or stud, opens up the gap on the top side of the thread, and should loosen the bolt in the hole, even if only a minute amount. Repeated cycles will cause an additive effect in opening the clearance back up. While you are tapping, try to turn the bolt out. You might also try turning the bolt in a bit before turning it out. Roger Welsch talks about this in one of his books. Drilling them out definitely works if done carefully, but is a last resort. As Roger says, accept it as a challenge and you can actually have some fun doing it. Use plenty of penetrant such as Kroil et. If you can drill all the way through the bolt, squirt some penetrant down the hole and it will work it's way into the threads from the bottom of the hole up. Tap on it and let is sit for a while. You'll get them out, although sometimes you have to be very patient and methodical. Good luck and have fun.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Marvin

02-08-2000 18:25:15




Report to Moderator
 Re: Re: broken G headbolts in reply to Joe Green, 01-17-2000 12:43:05  
Bolts are out. Used a little advise from everybody and lots of patience. Thanks to everybody who resonded! Marvin



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Marvin

02-08-2000 18:16:29




Report to Moderator
 Re: Re: broken G headbolts in reply to Joe Green, 01-17-2000 12:43:05  
Bolts are out. Used a little advise from everybody and lots of patience. Thanks to everybody who resonded! Marvin



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Marvin

01-23-2000 18:44:44




Report to Moderator
 Re: Re: broken G headbolts in reply to Joe Green, 01-17-2000 12:43:05  
Joe,
Thank you for your feed back on the broken studs. Makes sense, Ill try it when I get time. Marvin



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Dick L

01-15-2000 06:58:21




Report to Moderator
 Re: broken G headbolts in reply to Marvin, 01-14-2000 22:45:10  
Head bolts break for one of three reasons, if they have been over tourqued when they were installed, if they were bottomed out when being in stalled and damaged the bottom threads on the end of the stud or bolt, or if the bolt goes into the water jacket or exaust port and rusts fast.
I makes a differance where they are located in the block. If they are located on the out side or the end of the block use heat on the block where the bolt it at. For the bolts that stick up 5" put a pipe wrench or such with an 18" or longer handle. The one flush with the block you can try an easyout but but you might still have to drill the hole out to the head bolt tap size, and retap the hole out. When drilling for the easy out make sure your on center. Use a center punch amd a ruler. center punch lightly and check for center three ways and keep center punching deeper a little at a time checking and forcing the punch to stay on center untill the punch mark is deep enough to keep your drill bit from wondering off center. Then use a small square to guide the drill to stay on center deep into the bolt. Easyouts! I don't like the tapered ones on a bolt that is real tight. Try to find one with the square shank and with the big socket head that can be driven into the drilled hole in the bolt. This type don't expand the bolt into the sides of the bolt threads. I like to use heat when ever I can on stuck threads. This is not as hard as it may sound, you just need to think it through and use caution. Good Luck

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Marvin

01-16-2000 18:08:27




Report to Moderator
 Re: Re: broken G headbolts in reply to Dick L, 01-15-2000 06:58:21  
Thanks for your advice. I've already tried most of your sugestions,to no avail. The bolts that are up are only 1/2" above the head,and not 5". They are very small for head bolts, and all 3 are next to the manifold, probably heat seized. Tried to weld a nut on the one, and then tried JB weld. So far neither one has worked. Ill keep trying. Thanks again, Marv



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Brian G.

01-16-2000 07:04:04




Report to Moderator
 Re: Re: broken G headbolts in reply to Dick L, 01-15-2000 06:58:21  
My father used to drill a hole a size just inside the threads, making sure it was dead center as Dick describes. Then, using a tiny very sharp chisel, he would carefully chip all the remaining bolt threads out from the external threads. He had the patience of a saint. I have watched another "old fella" remove a bolt broken flush with the surface by first welding a washer to the bolt (presumably to isolate the welding from the surface) and then welding (thru the hole) a nut to the bolt. It worked beautifully. The fact that he had been a professional welder for the American Locomotive Works for years may have contributed to his success.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
[Options]  [Printer Friendly]  [Posting Help]  [Return to Forum]   [Log in to Reply]

Hop to:


TRACTOR PARTS TRACTOR MANUALS
We sell tractor parts!  We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]

Home  |  Forums


Copyright © 1997-2023 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy

TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters

Website Accessibility Policy