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Discussion Forum
:

WC connecting rod shims

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Don Foster

08-22-1998 06:33:17




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I have replaced the piston & rings on #4 cyl. of a '39 WC. In the process the cap shims got lost (if there were any). The other rods have shims. I was unable to crank it without shims so have built up to .008" and it seemed ok so closed it up. Now I worry that it may still be too tight. It will turn over reluctantly.

Can I do damage if I get it running, or will it,loosen up? After all I've spent, from new tires on up, I would hate to lose that crank!!!!

Thanks

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grapeape

08-23-1998 18:33:19




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 Re: WC connecting rod shims in reply to Don Foster, 08-22-1998 06:33:17  
: I have replaced the piston & rings on #4 cyl. of a '39 WC. In the process the cap shims got lost (if there were any). The other rods have shims. I was unable to crank it without shims so have built up to .008" and it seemed ok so closed it up. Now I worry that it may still be too tight. It will turn over reluctantly.

: Can I do damage if I get it running, or will it,loosen up? After all I've spent, from new tires on up, I would hate to lose that crank!!!!

: Thanks

hi don, in response to your question, can i do damage if the rod is not properly shimmed, the answer is yes, definitely
you need to pick up a set of laminated shims from your allis dealer or they were also available through clevite or another bearing company. i bought a set for the mains and rods from my local car quest dealer the last time i overhauled one. if youre not familiar with the shim pack setup, its very confusing.
you will get what appears to be one shim only to go under each bolt.
you should start with the complete shim under each side of the rod and plastigage under the brg.torque the cap per operators manual and
carefully remove the cap and brg. check your clearance with the plastigage and remove shims gradually until you have about two to three thousands clearance. if youve torqued the brg with no shims under it i recommend that you start with another bearing, since without shims
it could have been distorted and cause damage to the throw. now unless youve worked with these shims youre gonna think im a liar until you try it, but you have to take a sharp knife and "peel" a shim or two off the laminated stack at a time and recheck with the plastigage until
you get the proper oil clearance. the laminated shim appears to be one piece only but trust me, there are several in the stack. its a time consuming job to go through all the rods and mains to get the proper oil clearance. theres lots of torquing and untorquing. you might want to check an it manual for the clearance i mentioned since im giving it off the top of my head, but i think the book says 1 1/2 - 3 thousands.
one and a half is too close for me, so i like the 2-3 thousands range. just take your time and itll work for ya. but remember, if you torqued the
new bearing shell without shims, you could have made the ends come in contact so hard that it eggshaped them. good luck, grapeape

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Don Foster

08-24-1998 19:11:47




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 Re: Re: WC connecting rod shims in reply to grapeape, 08-23-1998 18:33:19  
: : I have replaced the piston & rings on #4 cyl. of a '39 WC. In the process the cap shims got lost (if there were any). The other rods have shims. I was unable to crank it without shims so have built up to .008" and it seemed ok so closed it up. Now I worry that it may still be too tight. It will turn over reluctantly.

: : Can I do damage if I get it running, or will it,loosen up? After all I've spent, from new tires on up, I would hate to lose that crank!!!!

: : Thanks

: hi don, in response to your question, can i do damage if the rod is not properly shimmed, the answer is yes, definitely
: you need to pick up a set of laminated shims from your allis dealer or they were also available through clevite or another : bearing company. i bought a set for the mains and rods from my local car quest dealer the last time i overhauled one. : if youre not familiar with the shim pack setup, its very confusing.
: you will get what appears to be one shim only to go under each bolt.
: you should start with the complete shim under each side of the rod and plastigage under the brg.torque the cap per operators manual and
: carefully remove the cap and brg. check your clearance with the plastigage and remove shims gradually until you have about two to three : thousands clearance. if youve torqued the brg with no shims under it i recommend that you start with another bearing, since without shims
: it could have been distorted and cause damage to the throw. now unless youve worked with these shims youre gonna think im a liar until you : try it, but you have to take a sharp knife and "peel" a shim or two off the laminated stack at a time and recheck with the plastigage until
: you get the proper oil clearance. the laminated shim appears to be one piece only but trust me, there are several in the stack. its a time : consuming job to go through all the rods and mains to get the proper oil clearance. theres lots of torquing and untorquing. you might want : to check an it manual for the clearance i mentioned since im giving it off the top of my head, but i think the book says 1 1/2 - 3 thousands.
: one and a half is too close for me, so i like the 2-3 thousands range. just take your time and itll work for ya. but remember, if you torqued the
: new bearing shell without shims, you could have made the ends come in contact so hard that it eggshaped them. good luck, grapeape

Thanks Grapeape.

That was a informative response. There is a small mention of the plastigage and the shim package in the manual but not much. You made it understadable. I have ordered the set through NAPA and should get started on it soon.

I ran the engine about 5 minutes and quit because there was a sqeal. I can turn it over with the crank but not easily.

Am making a show tractor out of this.

Don Foster

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