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Allis Chalmers Discussion Forum
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1938 WF HELP!

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LKM

03-31-2008 17:58:03




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I'm restoring a early 1938 Allis WF SN# 836 and having a problem lifting out a rear brake drum. This unit has a one piece cast iron differential and final drive housing. The inner part of the Bering on the bull pinion shaft is very loose approximately 1/8" play. Either the Bering is worn or the shaft is worn to a smaller diameter and will need to be replaced. I pulled the brake band assembly out, removed the drum locking nut then removed the axle, Bering and all intending to replace both inner and outer oil seal but am unable to get the drum out of the case. The Bering cage appears to be part of the casting (Housing) although a parts book drawing shows it be a separate part on some tractors. If it is a separate piece I assume its a pressed fit in the housing as there are no bolts or flanges to hold it in. I would appreciate any help and or advise with this as I'm trying to be careful. It has been in there for 70 years and I'm sure will not come out easily.

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Chuck Luedtke

04-03-2008 04:05:29




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 Re: 1938 WF HELP! in reply to LKM, 03-31-2008 17:58:03  
The rear hub seal you can still get from AGCO. I called up Dean Ag Parts in Missouri and they have them in stock. They aren't cork anymore, they are now made out of rubber, but they are $40 each. I was going to call them about the other seals one of these days as well, but I haven't gotten to it yet. They stock alot of parts and they can usually ship them out same day. For 8 bucks, they shipped them to me in WI. It's not even worth the 8 dollars to try to drive over to my local AGCO dealer, order them and then come back and pick them up. I can get you their number if you want it.

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Chuck Luedtke

04-02-2008 15:43:41




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 Re: 1938 WF HELP! in reply to LKM, 03-31-2008 17:58:03  
I believe the rear end on a WF is the same as a WC. I just took apart a WC rearend from a 38 last weekend. If you have the drive gear cover plate etc. all removed and the rear hub, then the only thing that is holding it in is the place is the drive shaft bearing cage, which is fitted into the rest of the casting of the rear end. If all the bolts are out of the outer cover, then the only thing holding everything in is the bearing cage itself. The book says to pry it out, and that will work. You also need to have the brake band out. What I did was pry between the brake drum and the casting of the rear end towards the outside. On one side, it came out with just prying back and forth and kind of slamming the pry bar towards the inside of the rear end and it came loose. On the other side, I had the do the same thing quite a few times, and then I took a small hammer and tapped lightly around the bearing cage so try and loosen it up. Then I jerked it again a few more times and it started to come out. Don't be too rough on it, but it should come out. If you need any spare parts for your rear end, let me know. I took this 38 rear end apart to learn a little and also, I need a brake drum out of it, for a 42' WC that I am restoring. I still have to take the 42 apart and see what I will need to replace. Right now, I know that both of the inner seals need to be replaced, so I will probably replace both the inner and outer as long as I am going that far. Can you still get those seals from AGCO, or do you know another source for them.

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LKM

04-02-2008 16:32:37




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 Re: 1938 WF HELP! in reply to Chuck Luedtke, 04-02-2008 15:43:41  
Thank you for your response. I got mine out last night doing it the same way you described. I'm currently looking for a source for seals and possibly gaskets; especially the large circular cork gasket that fits under the hub oil seal retainer. The inner seal was a National #50094 but I was unable to match it at the local parts store. I also have to weld up and turn down the axle shaft under the bering as the shaft is worn down aprox. .050. The bering is fine and mikes out good but is sloppy on the shaft. I would like to replace the cast cap on the right brake as it has an ear broken off. I'll e-mail you a picture to see if the WC and WF are the same.

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