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tight engine rebuild

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chalmersbob

03-30-2008 19:34:54




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Just read Orangeman's question on his engine rebuild. here's my question for you experts. I just bolted up my rods to the crank on my d14 engine. the sleaves, pistons, rings and bearings are all new. As I bolted up each rod the crank got harder to turn, until the last one, now I can't turn it at all. Its all been plastigaged to .003. What do I do?
I don't remember the crank getting this tight on the B that I rebuilt, I could at least turn it.
Bob

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Deranged

04-03-2008 10:26:37




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 Re: tight engine rebuild in reply to chalmersbob, 03-30-2008 19:34:54  
I had the exact same issue with my D14. Rods had the long part towards the wrong way. As soon as I put them in the right way it would turn over easily.



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mlpankey

04-02-2008 18:19:43




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 Re: tight engine rebuild in reply to chalmersbob, 03-30-2008 19:34:54  
Somethings wrong motor should rotate free if the head and plugs are out. i mic my journals with bearings in place and caps torqued then i mic the crank journals 2 thousandths clearance will rotate free .



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Jack a

04-02-2008 03:20:21




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 Re: tight engine rebuild in reply to chalmersbob, 03-30-2008 19:34:54  
I can't remember but are the rods supposed to be offset? If so do you have the offset to the correct side. The rods should have slight side play after installation and as you probably know you should turn the crank as you torque the mains and caps.



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steve(ill)

03-31-2008 19:09:58




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 Re: tight engine rebuild in reply to chalmersbob, 03-30-2008 19:34:54  
loosen up all 4 rod caps 1 turn so you got .010 clearance on the bearings. now turn the crank and see how tight. is it the piston rings in the bore, or the rod bearings? i assume the crank turned easy befor pistons were installed?



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chalmersbob

03-31-2008 19:28:55




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 Re: tight engine rebuild in reply to steve(ill), 03-31-2008 19:09:58  
I checked the rings in the cylinders before assembly. With the piston in the cylinder I had to tap with hammer handle to slide it. The crank turned fine before the rod were mounted. I don't think I have any caps on backwards, I'll check. they were all marked.
Thank you for your replies. Bob



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MLPANKEY

04-02-2008 18:32:58




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 Re: tight engine rebuild in reply to chalmersbob, 03-31-2008 19:28:55  

chalmersbob said: (quoted from post at 19:28:55 03/31/08) I checked the rings in the cylinders before assembly. With the piston in the cylinder I had to tap with hammer handle to slide it. The crank turned fine before the rod were mounted. I don't think I have any caps on backwards, I'll check. they were all marked.

Thank you for your replies. Bob
the rods are offset 1 and 3having the long part of the bearing towards flywheel and 2 and 4 long part of bearing towards cam shaft. hope this helps connecting rods tighten to 35 - 40 lbs pal nuts go finger tight plus 1/8 turn. :lol:

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kipn

03-31-2008 13:31:35




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 Re: tight engine rebuild in reply to chalmersbob, 03-30-2008 19:34:54  
You have to have a rod or a main cap switched or backwards. Make sure the bearing "tab" on each half is on the same side. Did you check the ring gap? Could be zero. You could be buttoning up the rods ok but the pistons are jammed.



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Howard H.

03-30-2008 19:41:19




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 Re: tight engine rebuild in reply to chalmersbob, 03-30-2008 19:34:54  

There isn't a chance you got a rod cap on backwards or two or more rod caps switched between rods, is there??

Also, do you really trust the machine shop??

I had a HD800 bored one time - and it started and ran great - for about 4 minutes - as soon as I got water to the top of the well, it would pull down and stop with a loud squeak!!

Let it cool down - it would start right up - long story short - the machine shop had gotten the cylinders just a touch tight - and as the pistons expanded, they'd lock the motor down...

Howard

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