B engine teardown, and, are cam bearings DIY install?

Thanks,
Dave

• Some pix of the work so far

Just thought of some more "stuff".

If you have the block "boiled out" with the cam bearings installed in it, the process will most likely destroy the cam bearings. Worn cam bearings are one of the causes for lower than normal oil perssure in these engines. Recommend that they be replaced if there any question.

The "split" type bushings usually require a better installation method than the solid type in my opinion. If the cost for the "shop" to install the cam bearings/bushings is not too high, that is probably the best way to go. Check the cam journals for wear. The bushings were available .002 undersize - at one time (for worn journals).

Are you sure that you want to "boil out" the block? If it is "painted" (a dark reddish brown color) inside the block, I would NOT recommend "boiling it out" as it will remove the "paint". This "paint" is a sealer for the cast iron and prevents oil "seeping through" any porosity in the casting. If the engine is original and has never been "boiled out" it is likely that it still has the "paint" inside the block. I would not recommend removing this paint. Just my opinion. Actually the block is fairly easy to clean with a "power washer" or at a "car wash".

Recommend "K&W Copper Coat" head gasket sealer for the head gasket if it is the metal type. Also recommend the metal type (rather than the fiber type) head gasket, if you can get it.

You might want to "glue" the valve cover gasket to the valve cover and "grease" the gasket surface next to the cylinder head (with a good high temperature grease). You will likely have the valve cover "off and on" a few times if you follow the cylinder head bolt re-torquing and valve clearance adjusting recommendations in the manual. (The manual recommendations will likely prevent a blown head gasket, if followed)

Again, the Manual is very helpfull.

Good luck, Gordon in IN

I'll check for brown paint inside the block, but I saw no sign of paint. However, since there don't seem to be many oil galleries (compared to an auto engine) I may just try to power wash this thing if it gets warm enough outside! A local machine shop wants 50 dollars to "hot-tank" it. I asked about eating cam bearings, and they said it won't hurt those. That makes me suspicious on what the cleaning actually entails.

Drilling the crank kinda scares me, especially since it's not really my tractor!

I see rebuild kits have new cam bearings, but they appear to be solid "O"s rather than split "C"s.

I'm going to digest some of this new advice and I hope to post back with an update for those who may be interested in how it turns out.

Thanks again!
dave

You may want to get a "I & T Shop Service" Manual for your "B" They are very helpful. Most "TSC" Stores have them and I think that they are available from suppliers on this site. There are a lot of "small things" and/or "details" that are different on the AC "B" engines than on most automotive engines.

Be sure you understand the shims on the connecting rod and main bearings that control the "crush" of the shell insert and that you are confident that you know how to install and adjust them. (The I & T Manual explains this very well - para 97, page 21.) Tightening torque values are also important (page 4).

The I & T Manual indicates that the camshaft uses "three renewable split type bushings". (I have seen both split type and solid type replacement bushings used in "WC" engines.)

Be sure to clean all of the "sludge" out of the "hollow" camshaft (that is the "oil gallery" for the engine maim bearings).

Also be sure to clean the hollow rocker arm shaft, the grooved rear rocker arm support stud, and all oil holes in the block and the external oil lines.

Be sure to used the "string wound or fiber packed" oil filter with the removable "stick" in the center. You can also want to fill it with oil and "soak" it in oil before installing it to help bring the oil pressure up quicker.

If you want to "up grade" the engine oiling system you may want to investigate modifying the crankshaft to provide oil to the rod bearings. (Number 1 rod bearing from the front main bearing; Number 2 and 3 rod bearings from the center main bearing; and number 4 rod from the rear main bearing.) This requires "drilling" the crankshaft in four locations. This is like a "CA" crankshaft. If you do this remember to "plug" all of the "rod bearing oiling holes" between the lobes of the camshaft and in the sides of the rod bearings.

Wheather ot not you decide to do the above "upgrade" to the engine oiling system, you may want to increase the diameter of the holes in the center bearing journal of the camshaft. If you think about having the same oil flow area of the holes in the center cam bearing journal as in each of the front and rear cam bearing journal oil holes, it does not seem "right". This means that there is twice as much area for oil to leave the hollow camshaft as there is for oil to enter the camshaft in the original design. This "might" be the reason that the front and rear main bearings usually show more wear than the center main bearing in well worn engines.

If the engine was burning a lot of oil it may need new valve guides and perhaps new valves.

You might need to check and regrind the rocker arm contact areas (where they contact the valve stems).

You can also "pump" oil into the engine through the oil fitting "T" on the side of the block prior to starting the engine. Or you can "spin" the engine with the starter or with a hand crank (with the spark plugs removed) to get full oil pressure before you start the engine the first time after overhaul.

Good luck on whatever you decide to do, Gordon in IN

And yes, I did mark the piston rods and caps, BUT I dropped the box with the organized tappets and they're now mixed up. Rats. I see they can be resurfaced, but I wonder about them matching the "used" cam.

Thanks again

Dave

Link loading="auto" style="width:auto;height:auto">

Geez Dick, can I borrow you and your machine shop? Got a lot of little toos and bushings I need :) Although I'm proud of my wheel nut wrenches for the B...Can get a 3/4" drive with a 4' cheater on it on them, and get them real tight now.