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Allis Chalmers Discussion Forum
:

wd45 motor froze need help

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ak matt

01-07-2008 20:49:07




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i have a wd45 the motor is locked, it is out in remote alaska how hard is it to replace the sleeves/pistons? iam pretty good at fixing stuff i do all of my own auto repair but never resleeved anything. and what special tools required? i have a slide hammer but i want to know what the perfered method is. i want this thing to run again without putting thousands in it!




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christopher kulesa

02-01-2008 20:14:15




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 Re: wd45 motor froze need help in reply to ak matt, 01-07-2008 20:49:07  
I hope I am not to late with this reply but I bought a WD-45 With a siezed motor. My dad who works very good on Allis tractors, removed the head from the motor, then heated the sleaves around the rings with a torch and hit the pistons down with a hardwood block and a 3lb. hammer. The tractor has to be in neutral and befor you start to pound you have to hone off the rust on the other cylender walls above the pistons. Then after hammering down the piston you have to hone the cylenders down to continue on the next piston. This inexpesive method works very well without sticking a lot of money into the motor right away. The rings were not hurt by this process because it does not smoke or burn oil when started and running. I would not reccomend heating the sleaves until they are glowing orange, just enough to get the piston to move. It may take some time but it's wroth it. I think this process costed me $300.00 but I needed some other parts besides a headgasket set.

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bh58

01-12-2008 04:29:47




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 Re: wd45 motor froze need help in reply to ak matt, 01-07-2008 20:49:07  
I just went through this this past fall and it is a lengthy process. My problem was caused by a leaky rain cap and only the no. 2 piston was actually lodged. I respect the guys who say to try the tranny fluid and kero as a first alternative. My sleeves were original and the no 2 piston rings rusted together to the sleeves. I made a puller using 3/4 allthread about 20" long. If you can get away with finding which piston is locked up and working on it, great. You will pick up a little more HP by resleeveing to 4-1/8". THe most important thing is to get a couple of pieces of heavy plate to span the block so you don't crack it. I used 3/4 plate about 6 wide. It bent when pulling out the toughest one. The pistons have to come out from the top. Make sure you mark the conn rods so the bearings match up too. I did mine with the motor on the frame which meant many, many hours working on your back. Believe it or not, perhaps the most aggravating part for me was replacing the pan gasket which is four pieces of cork gasket. Next time I will pull the motor first and do the work on a work bench.

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Larry Condon

01-08-2008 05:42:30




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 Re: wd45 motor froze need help in reply to ak matt, 01-07-2008 20:49:07  
Even if you are successful in removing the stuck pistons, you should pull the sleeves and replace the o-rings around the sleeves. I believe they are wet sleeves. The o-rings maybe in bad shape and leak anti-freeze into the oil pan after you re-assemble the engine. The o-rings are not expensive.



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El Toro

01-08-2008 03:56:54




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 Re: wd45 motor froze need help in reply to ak matt, 01-07-2008 20:49:07  
I would pull the head & pan then soak the pistons
with ATF. Then follow what DarDan has suggested. I used that wood and hammer on a red A over 30 years ago that was stuck. I did install new sleeves and pistons. Clean that block area thoroughly where your sleeve seals are. Hal



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DARDAN

01-07-2008 22:21:02




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 Re: wd45 motor froze need help in reply to ak matt, 01-07-2008 20:49:07  
I made my own sleeve puller. A piece of 3/4 plate turned 4 3/8 diameter with 4" dia pilot about 3/16 deep(to locate in bore), and an 11/16" hole in the center(for pull rod).
An 18" piece of 5/8" all thread, nuts and washers(pull rod).
A piece of pipe 4 1/5 inside about 3" high(to set on top of block).
A heavy bar with 11/16" hole in middle(for on top of pipe).

For the ones that you cannot get the piston out of you can use a hardwood sledge hammer handle or hardwood dowel as a long punch to snake up past the crank and drive against the wrist pin boss.

I would give a fair effort to get the pistons unstuck befor resigning to pulling the sleeves. you may be able to clean the pistons and sleeves and just do a ring job.

Some sleeves pull very easy and some very hard. The area where the sleeve seats in the top of the block is critical to be clean but NO metal removal. There is a reqired amount the sleeve has to protrude above the block face for the head gasket to seal.

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