Open the cap and (if it has one) remove the rotor and plastic divider plate to expose the points. Put a corner of a dollar bill between the points. and leave it there. Turn on the ignition sw. Use your test light as before, test the input side of coil, and now the output side. If it now lights, the points may need a little bit of 320 paper used between them to get the factory goo off of them. If there is no light, one of two things are happening. If the little stud that goes through the side of the distributor is grounded on the case it will not run. If the coil is open inside (bad) it will not run. To check which, take the wire off of the distributor terminal and than check to see power on the coil side that is opposite the resistor. If no power, the coil is open and bad. Good luck, JimN
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Today's Featured Article - Field Modifications (Sins of the Farmer) - by Staff. Picture a new Chevrolet driving down the street without it's grill, right fender and trunk lid. Imagine a crude hole made in the hood to accommodate a new taller air cleaner, the fender wells cut away to make way for larger tires, and half of a sliding glass door used to replace the windshield. Top that off with an old set of '36 Ford headlight shells bolted to the hood. Pretty unlikely for a car... but for a tractor, this is pretty normal. It seems that more often than not they a
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