Block up the rear and front of the frame on a very level concrete pad so that the middle is off the ground about 4 inches, so the wheels are not touching. Place a reference block under each side with a height that is effectively the height that would be straight. Use a one inch rose bud torch tip to get a triangle area 12" wide at the top and point down, to a medium red (both sides evenly heated) Heat at the most bent location. The heat will begin to sag the frame after making it appear to be worse at first. Then quench the heat with a bucket and soaked rags cooling it as quickely as possible. This shrinks the steel and reduces the bend. Repeat this exactly the same on the other side. Repeat as needed to put the stringers right. some change in temper may be the result of this treatment, but not much. I recommend putting a 10 foot piece of that channel on the top of each side of each stringer, or if too close to the tires. Put a 1/4 inch plate (Fishplate) on that side matching the length. Skip weld 3 inches and leave 3 inches on the top and bottom of each. That is the best I have, we did this to flat bed road trailers for steel hauling. 2-35,000# coils, 8 axles. They were bent the other direction, and we were putting arch into them from sagging 3 or 4 inches. Jim
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Today's Featured Article - Harvestin Hay: The Early Years (Part 2) - by Pat Browning. The summer of 1950 was the start of a new era in farming for our family. I was thirteen, and Kathy (my oldest sister) was seven. At this age, I believed tractor farming was the only way, hot stuff -- and given a chance I probably would have used the tractor, Dad's first, a 1936 Model "A" John Deere, to go bring in the cows! And I think Dad was ready for some automation too. And so it was that we acquired a good, used J. I. Case, wire tie hay baler. In addition to a person to drive th
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