In answer to your question: Bare Metal. No insulation whatsoever. I would not do a thing differently. My soil conditions-sandy, well drained- are such that a moisture barrier under the floor is simply not needed. My floor is completely concreted (60x88). Black roof is highly recommended for roof warmth in your neck of the woods. With high sides the roof will be up where it will not be too hot at the ground level with the doors open. Soffit vents should be on the underside of the overhang (2' overhang recommended). Full length ridge vent. Make sure trusses are spaced properly for snowload. I get no condensation and bare metal parts of machinery (disc blades, coulters, etc.) stay shiney. I also have 10 skylights. No need for any lights during daylight hours, even with the doors closed. And no, the skylights do not leak. And, I have wainscoating at the bottom all the way around to avoid having to replace long sheets of metal but so far no one has driven into it and no ice has caved it in. With a black metal roof, once the snow starts to slide off, it really slides and lands out some distance from the building. Not so with a shingled roof. I wouldn't even consider a shingled roof. Put your entrance doors on the ends to avoid the snow blocking them. Also from hitting you on the head.
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Today's Featured Article - What Oil Should I Use? - by Francis Robinson. I keep seein this question pop up over and over again in discussion groups all over the web. As with many things there are often several right answers and a few wrong ones. Some purist I'm sure will disagree to no end with what I will tell you but most of us out here in the real world don't really care do we ? Some of them only bring their noses down out of the air long enough to look down them anyway. If you are like me you are only doing this old tractor stuff because you enjoy it. You
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