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Tool Talk Discussion Board

Re: Wire Size for Kewanee Elevator Motor


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Posted by John T PS on November 27, 2013 at 10:41:21 from (216.249.76.176):

In Reply to: Wire Size for Kewanee Elevator Motor posted by MFan on November 26, 2013 at 06:03:37:

Time for an update based on new info, I was getting lost down below. I'm trying to give you a range of options now BUT AFTER THIS ITS YOUR CALL Any electric supply house can size a starter and thermals and safety switch (use NEMA 3R for outdoor use) and fuses and/or Twist Lock Receptacles and Plugs now, let them figure the rest of this lol

The picture is what we were thinking, capacitors in that box plus what appears to be a thermal overload with reset.


1) I would still prefer a two pole fused safety switch disconnect at each location in sight and within 50 feet of the elevator. If you're running 10 gauge from it to the elevator, Id use a 30 amp regular fuse and in the event it doesn't allow the motor to start (which I doubt), Id use Class K5 Dual Element Time Delay Fuses.

NOTE AS I RECALL a simple female Receptacle at the barn and a male Plug on the cord to the elevator can serve as the "means of disconnection" i.e. A full blown Safety Switch IS NOT NECESSARILY REQUIRED. Id use 30 amp 2 Pole 3 Wire Grounding Twist Lock Receptacles and a matching Plug. HOWEVER if you do that remember the overcurrent protection device in your main panel (that feeds the receptacle) would have to be a 30 amp (for the 10 gauge cord to elevator) even thought you're still running 8 Gauge from the panel to receptacle.

ID STILL WANT A MOTOR STARTER although Billy Bob could start it across the line by just flipping the safety switch to on which may eventually burn n carbon up the switch knife and contacts lol

You could use a cheaper simple ON/OFF two push button mechanical two pole 240 volt starter with thermals (heaters) just size it for the Motors HP and FLA. The electric supply shop could do that.

Such a device could be mounted underneath the Safety Switch,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, Or above the Receptacle,,,,,,,,,,,,Or buy a "Combination Starter" which is BOTH a Safety Switch PLUS Motor Starter all built into a single enclosure.

Likely the cheapest yet still legal system would be a mechanical two button On Off starter with thermals and receptacle and Receptacle mounted under it,,,,,,,,,,Next cheapest a fused safety switch with a starter under it but then you still need a recp and plug out to the elevator,,,,,,,,,,,Probably most expensive is a Combination Starter but I haven't priced this stuff in years so no warranty.

This all hinges on a Receptacle and Plug serving as the "means of disconnection" which I think is fine (No warranty however) thereby no safety switch is required, but I would still like a starter with thermals even if the motor still has that built in overload device. A real Billy Bob might rely on the motors overload device and just use a plug and receptacle but I dont like to start a motor by just plugging into a receptacle YIKES lol Heck at least have a knife type safety switch Bubba can throw!!! Better buy a real "starter" dont ya think???

If my prices or NEC (and Plug & Recp as disconnect) are out of whack maybe Dusty Man can straighten me out???

NUFF SAID rest is up to you

John T


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