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Tool Talk Discussion Board

Re: Stick Welding Steel to Cast Iron (Video)


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Posted by Stick welding on March 02, 2013 at 22:21:05 from (96.53.210.246):

In Reply to: Re: Stick Welding Steel to Cast Iron (Video) posted by Puddles on March 02, 2013 at 10:25:14:

I don't know if I've got such a great mind. Thanks
for the compliment though. LoL I probably go into
too much detail because I figure a lot of people
don't realize what's involved to fabricate some of
the big stuff.

You use a lot of dogs and wedges fitting vessels.
Wedges are used for the heavy jobs like fitting 2
1/2" thick heads. Most times you can just weld on
one side like in your picture but sometimes you
have to weld both sides and grind one weld out to
break it off. Really heavy jobs need hydraulic
porta-powers to put things in place.

I worked in a vessel shop that had a 10' diameter,
2 3/4" head weighing over 10 tons fall off and
partially crush a wire feeder. It put a hole in
the concrete floor as well. A lot of wedges were
used to fit it and it was fully tacked in place
for the root pass but must have been under a lot
of stress. Tacking isn't really the right term.
When fitting thick vessels you lay a piece of
round bar in the bevel and put a weld down each
side so you don't burn the edge for your root
pass. The round bar is 1" to 1 1/2" long and you
put a 1/4" gap rod between the 2 bevels for 100%
penetration. We heard a ping, then another ping
and it didn't take long to realize the tacks were
breaking. It was almost like slow motion, then
BANG! We saw the wire feeder and XMT 304 cart
sitting there but you don't take chances with a 10
ton chunk of steel making strange noises. The
tacks were about 6" apart all the way around! I
helped fit it back on and got to do the MIG root
pass. Had to use a tiger torch to preheat it but
man that was a lot of grinding! You start your
root pass between the tacks and grind out and
clean up every piece of round bar as you go. You
also have to feather your root pass every time you
stop. Once the root pass is done you grind all
your stops and starts and run a 3/16" 7018 hot
pass so hopefully the sub-arc won't burn through.
Fixing sub-arc burn through for 100% X-Ray isn't
fun and neither is grinding off all the welds from
the wedges. LoL


For pulling checker plate up on skids when they're
upside down, we just used a piece of pipe with
about a 2" wide flat bar on the end. In that case
you tack the back side of the flat bar on the
checker plate and place the other end on the I
beam. Then just use the weld as a hinge and pull
the checker plate up and tack it in place. Pull
the pipe handle back and it breaks the tack so you
can move to a new location. Very fast and because
the tacks are on the bottom and nobody see's them,
you don't normally have to grind them off.


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