The reason for newer less-oil-to-gas ratios is 100% due to emissions-regs. Subquently, most new saws have to use more durable materials to hold up as well as older saws that were not built as durable. Less oil also makes for a slightly richer fuel-mixture that sometimes requires some adusting (if possible).
You're not going to hurt a thing using more oil in newer saws, but you could putting less in older saws. Playing it "safe" is cheap insurance.
I used to use plain-old 30W motor oil back in the 60s. At that time, Sthil called for 20 to 1 and Homelite 16 to 1. In the 1990s, Stihl still called for 20 to 1 with regular oil, and up to 50 to 1 with high-tech two-stroke-cycle oil.
I've been using cheap outboard two-stroke-cycle oil I buy in 5 gallon jugs at a 20 to 1 mix in all my saws- built from the 1950s up to a few new 2010 saws I've got. Zero problems. But, I've also never bought bar oil in my life. I run waste oil and also never had a problem, not even on my 32" bars.
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Traction - by Chris Pratt. Our first bout with traction problems came when cultivatin with our Massey-Harris Pony. Up till then, this tractor had been running a corn grinder and pulling a trailer. It had new unfilled rear tires and no wheel weights. The garden was already sprouting when we hooked up the mid-mount shovel cultivators to the Pony. The seed bed was soft enough that the rear end would spin and slowly work its way to the downhill side of the gardens slight incline. From this, we learned our lesson sinc
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