Seems to me that the easiest way to tell the difference between cast iron and steel, when in doubt, is to machine it or drill it.
I checked into the plastic solution. Epoxies, such as the JB Weld product, are good for 500 degrees. Another product called Lab Metal is a single component and good for 350 with twenty minute exposures to 425. They also have a product called High temp Lab Metal good for 1000 degrees. All three products are machineable and adhesive. The joint is around .015-.020. I bought some JB Weld and will give that a try as epoxies don't shrink. The joint is at the highest point in the cooling system. It should be easy to detect a failure prior to any damage to the tractor.
My oxygen/propane set up is good (and cheap) for cutting but is very slow for brazing. I have no confidence it will do the job. I do have a Miller Heli-Arc with torch and water cooler, but only use it for stick welding. Wouldn't use it enough to pay for the cylinder demurage.
I have often wondered about distinguishing the difference between forgings and cast steel. Both can have parting lines and are steel. Everybody calls the frame joints, on old Harleys, castings but I think they are actually forgings. All those fittings were joined by furnace brazing prior to the mid '50's. When I look at something like rockshaft arms on a tractor, I can't be sure what they are.
Here's another picture of the tractor. Showcrop will probably see it someday as we are not that far apart.
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Today's Featured Article - What Oil Should I Use? - by Francis Robinson. I keep seein this question pop up over and over again in discussion groups all over the web. As with many things there are often several right answers and a few wrong ones. Some purist I'm sure will disagree to no end with what I will tell you but most of us out here in the real world don't really care do we ? Some of them only bring their noses down out of the air long enough to look down them anyway. If you are like me you are only doing this old tractor stuff because you enjoy it. You
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