It's pretty labor intensive to paint a tractor and do it right but anyone that is patient should be able to do it. It's yes and no about painting inside the shop with the heat on. Paint fumes are explosive and without good ventilation and electric heat you could only paint a little at a time. You would have to heat the paint and the parts you are going to spray to above the minimum recommended temperature for the paint and then turn off anything that has a open flame or would make a spark. You would have to exhaust the paint fumes or the paint floating in the air would settle back on what you were spraying. Unless you had electric heat the temperature in the building would very quickly get cold and would ruin the paint. The easiest solution is if you have warm days from time to time where you live in winter, you can do preparation work while the weather is cold and warm days do the spraying work. As far as paint sprayers, I have good luck with using a cheap Harbor Freight conventional paint sprayers. I'm not impressed with their gravity feed HVLP gun although it comes in handy working small batches because it will spray every drop where a conventional gun needs a couple of ounces before it will pick up the paint. I buy paint from Napa. My store sells Dupont Nason so I use Nason Ful-Poxy 491-10 epoxy primer and Nason Ful-Thane 2k Urethane Topcoat. Regardless of brand a 2k urethane will be better paint for a tractor then the JD paint. While you are shopping for equipment, purchase a fresh air supplied respirator. It is a must for spraying many automotive paints. The Isocyanide hardeners in the paint can put a major hurt on you with just a small amount and it will go straight through a regular paint respirator. I know this because I sprayed one gallon outdoors with a regular respirator holding my breath when I was down wind from the spray. I had a constant cough for six months afterwards. Since you have so many tractors to paint I would start with the one that you are least particular with the quality of the paint job. The more experience you get the better you will get at it so I would save the tractor you want the best job on until last. The cast parts probably won't be a problem. Its when you get to the tin, it will need body work and you can work it over and think you have it perfect right up through primer and then start seeing defects in it when you start spraying the color coat. If you are picky you can purchase two different colors of primer and alternate the color of primer each time you prime and sand the tin. This will help show you where the dents are that are hiding from you.
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Today's Featured Article - Madison's County - by Anthony West. Philip Madison has been a good friend of mine for quite some time. He has patiently suffered my incessant chit chat on the subject of tractors for longer than I care to remember, and on many occasions he has put himself out, dropped what ever it was he was doing, to come and lend a hand cranking handles, or loading a find onto a trailer. Although he himself has never actually owned or restored a tractor, he was always enthusiastic and always around helping with other peoples projects.
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