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Antique Tractor Paint and Bodywork

Re: painting question

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Posted by CNKS on July 04, 2012 at 06:38:53 from (

In Reply to: Re: painting question posted by showcrop on July 03, 2012 at 19:10:24:

Showcrop, my point is that Picklex 20 will do everything that you say. You can brush it on and forget about it until you are ready to paint, then scuff it with a scothbrite pad and remove most of the rest of the white residue with wax and grease remover. The instructions say it can be painted over, but I don't paint over residue, which is one reason I don't use true rust converters. Picklex is expensive but it goes a LONG way. I was told about it 10 years ago by a long term painter, who told me to forget metal prep, which is about the same as what you are using. I used Picklex over a sanded and mostly clean hood also 10 years ago. There was some residual rust I could not sand out, before I started using the fiber wheel. The rust was neutralized. I have never seen rust bubble on anything because there is no rust when I paint. Pro body guys (I will exclude B Maniac and Glennster, because they know what they are talking about) are for the most part "shortcut guys" who want to get done and make money off someone else. I can prepare surfaces better than they do because I take the time to do it right. Don't take me wrong, there is nothing wrong with what you are doing, it just takes more time, and you have to be sure the surface is absolutely dry, with Picklex you don't have to do that. It appears that I am going to tell people what I do, you are going to say what you do, so on this forum that "conflict" is always going to be here -- so be it. Done properly they both work.


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