Just to add to what CNKS said , unless you are pretty well experienced at painting , you will have a mess if you try painting a light blue metallic in single stage. It is just one PITA to get it to shine like glass without the metallic sagging or mottleing or tiger striping.It can be done but not without some formal education from someone who has learned it(probably the hard way). I have done many back in the days when it wasn't an option but now with base/clear , I will NOT single stage ANY metallic for anyone. Base/clear is much easier , costs no more and holds up better and gives you the option to sand and buff if need be. Sand and buff on a single stage pastel metallic and you will have a blotchy mess. Ask CNKS , once you base/clear you will never go back , especially on metallics. Solids , it's a toss-up. Sounds like a truck worth doing right. The reason clear delaminated on some older base/clear cars was that it was still in it's experimental stages and the factories were between a rock and a hard place trying to get a "wet on wet" bond without sanding and also meet the EPA's more stringent factory emmissions and VOC standards for the paint operations. Havn't seen one delaminate since the early-mid 1990,s. I have never had any of my jobs do it. Been using BC/CC since 1986.
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Today's Featured Article - What Oil Should I Use? - by Francis Robinson. I keep seein this question pop up over and over again in discussion groups all over the web. As with many things there are often several right answers and a few wrong ones. Some purist I'm sure will disagree to no end with what I will tell you but most of us out here in the real world don't really care do we ? Some of them only bring their noses down out of the air long enough to look down them anyway. If you are like me you are only doing this old tractor stuff because you enjoy it. You
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