Typically the coolant temp sensor is a variable resistor, as the temp decreases the resistance of the sensor will increase. For example, I am looking at one for a motorcycle I checked several days ago, at 212 F the resistance is 32 ohms, 180 F is 53 ohms, 140 F is 108 ohms and 86 F is 350 ohms. It is easy to check by placing the sensor in a cup of hot water and reading the resistance as it cools.
The sensor calibration (ohms versus temp) has to match that of your temp gage for the system to read correctly. As you can see there is a big change in resistance and for the gage to read full hot at ambient temp suggests another problem.
1) Perhaps your sensor is faulty i.e. grounded (zero ohms). 2) Perhaps there is a resistor used (now missing) to drop the voltage supply to the temp gage. Some times a voltage regulator is used.
As to the thermostat, if the engine was designed for one I always believe it should not be removed. The thermostat holds a backpressure on the system and can also help control/prevent pump cavitation. I have however, never understood how the flow can be too fast through the radiator such that there is not time to cool the water. The radiator is always filled with water and the is no difference in the time the radiator has to cool it regardless of the flow rate.
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