Posted by stoygop on June 16, 2013 at 13:55:11 from (24.154.170.93):
I recently purchased a 1949 Ford 8N. The previous owner repaired the hydraulics and converted to electrical system to 12V with the alternator, replaced spark plug wires, etc. Before I get to the overheating, I had problems with it not starting which I traced back to the coil not making contact with the distributor. It had a worn gasket which I replaced with one from this site, but even with the the new gasket it does not make good contact. If I want the engine to run, I have to remove the gasket which I think is a little dubious. Any suggestions?
On to the main problem. I"ve been trying to mow some high grass with a 5" Deere bush hog and the thing keeps overheating. First the block temperature was getting to about 220 when coolant would come out of the cap. It seemed the cap was faulty and I replaced it. The old cap was faulty as now it gets to a higher temp when it spews coolant. I have recently installed a thermostat in the top radiator tube (pointy side toward radiator). I also have a rhythmic knocking (sometimes squealing) sound coming from the crankshaft pulley which wobbles a bit. It seems to be the original pulley and the edge is warped toward the engine block. I have read I can pry it out (which I did after I disassembled everything), but since I am going to replace the radiator (had to cut the bolts off) and water pump, I thought I"d just replace the pulley while I had everything disassembled. Finally, the belt with the alternator set up deflects about 1", maybe more. Definitely more than I think is reasonable, but I can"t move the alternator farther away to tension. Is this typical of 12V set ups? Could this be why the thing is overheating? I have a replacement belt from this site designed for the alternator and it seems to be the exact same belt currently on. The old belt doesn"t seem worn much at all. The fan and pump definitely spin, but I can"t tell if it is slipping to some extent. Is there something else I should be doing? I"m not positive the water pump is bad - is there a way to determine this with it off the tractor?
Thanks for any help you can give me. I don't necessarily want to replace everything, but on the other hand I don't want to mow for 5 minutes and then have to keep ripping it apart every weekend to save $30-40.
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