First identify which pipe leads from the secondary fuel filter to the injection pump....remove it at the pump end and hand prime the tractor at the fuel lift pump on the opposite side of the tractor. If the fuel does not flow the full of this pipe then you have issues with dirt in either the tank strainer, or the filters...or you may have a problem with the lift pump (valves sticking) Providing you have a full flow , reconnect the pipe. The next issue is bleeding the injector pump, loosen both bleed screws and hand prime . Next loosen one fuel pipe, loosening it at the pump is sufficient, now crank the engine...you should be getting a good 'squirt' of fuel each time the pump injects on that pipe...If not the rack inside your injector pump may be stuck, usually a few sharp blows with a block of wood on the side of the pump will release this. Once you get fuel 'squirting' keep on cranking at about half throttle with the pipe still loose until it fires up, then retighten the pipe with the engine still running, WARNING...Diesel fuel can be harmful to your skin, wear adequate protection and keep away from direct sprays of fuel. That is about the best I can do from my side of the Atlantic....Sam
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Today's Featured Article - Product Review: Electronic Ignition - by Staff. Oil, for example has come a long way in the last 50 years and I don't use anything but the latest API grade available. I've heard the arguments for non-detergent oils but would never trade it for today's formulations. Paint is another, the modern acrylic enamels are great for resistance to grease and fuel stains, retaining their shine and they last forever; unlike enamels and lacquers . Still another is the alternator. No doubt using the original generator keeps the tractor pure, but for thos
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