My last post was a bit confusing now that I go back and read it. Step-by-step process would be remove the rear wheels and cast centers. You then would need to unbolt both final drives which will also remove the fenders. You can then take both drive shafts out of the differential from each side of the rear end housing. Then remove the propeller shaft cover from the motor to the transmission. You have to then remove both "rag joints" or fiber disks which connect the propeller shaft to the trans and clutch. I found you really have to do this to be able to get the trans out. It is a tight fit with the brake rod in there which can also be a pain to take out. I would leave that alone. I have muscled the trans in and out by hand alone without an engine hoist or overhead crane. It is a pain but can be done. To rebuild my trans with all new bearings, seals, new seals in the differential (no bearings), and all new seals and bearings in both final drives as well as brake bands cost me $1,175. That included sleeving a few shafts in the final drives at $50-$75 a sleeve. I think you could do the trans for under $400 if you shop around for the bearings and parts. Make sure you get PC0150 which is the parts catalog for the L. PC0151 is for the LA. There is a bearing cross reference chart around that can help you find the bearings since JD does not carry a lot of the L series bearings anymore. Most were Timken bearings that came out of my LA.
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Today's Featured Article - What Oil Should I Use? - by Francis Robinson. I keep seein this question pop up over and over again in discussion groups all over the web. As with many things there are often several right answers and a few wrong ones. Some purist I'm sure will disagree to no end with what I will tell you but most of us out here in the real world don't really care do we ? Some of them only bring their noses down out of the air long enough to look down them anyway. If you are like me you are only doing this old tractor stuff because you enjoy it. You
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