Re: 4020 Clutch

Posted by Bob on December 01, 2004 at 09:08:41 from (66.163.134.177):

In Reply to: Re: 4020 Clutch posted by G/MAN on December 01, 2004 at 07:32:03:

There are several unlined plate surfaces in there (including the flywheel face) that will likely be worn and grooved. Same for the PTO clutch, (if it has one, and you're fixing that while you're in there, too). Be sure to match-mark the clutch cover and flywheel before separating them.

The flywheel will likely need to be resurfaced and the "step" where the pressure plate sits gets machined also, to compensate for the amount worn off, and removed from the flywheel when it's ground "true". If this dimension is not maintained correctly, the spring tension on the pressure plate will not be as great as it should be, and the clutch will slip and fail again, if the tractor is used hard.

If the tractor has the optional ceri-metallic clutch disc, the flywheel WILL be badly worn, sometimes beyond re-use.

The springs can be tested if the dealer or machine shop has a spring tester, or just replaced, because if the clutch has ever been real hot, the springs will likely be weak.

The bottom line is that you can split the tractor yourself, and remove the clutch and flywheel, but you need to have a knowledgeable person (about DEERE clutches) look at it and measure it out and see what repairs are needed. Often, the Deere shops "farm out" their machine work to an automotive machine shop, and if you can find out which one in your area that does the Deere stuff for the dealers, you could take the flywheel and the clutch there for measuring and visual inspection, and grinding (if needed).

When the surfaces have been reground, and you have any new parts needed, you can assemble the clutch assembly yourself, and take the clutch and flywheel to the local Deere dealer, and pay them an hour or so's labor to reset the fingers, then you won't need the special tool, and HOPEFULLY, it will get done right! (When assembling the clutch to the flywheel for the dealer to set the fingers, align the match marks made before disassembly. Then, after the clutch fingers are set, it will have to come off of the flywheel for the flywheel to be installed on the engine, and then match the marks up AGAIN.)

I believe Deere also sells a complete re-man clutch assembly. It will not be cheap, but if your clutch is bad enough that a lot of parts are needed, that might be an option.

To reassemble the clutch you will need a clutch alignment tool for the traction clutch plate.

The PTO plate (if used) is loose (unlike the other plate), and can be aligned with the splines by turning the engine over by hand while carefully pushing the tractor together by hand.

DO NOT draw the tractor together will the bolts. You will destroy one or both of the clutch plates.

If the tractor has a PTO, there is an oddball seal between the end of the hollow PTO drive shaft and the pilot shaft. Replace that, too.

Also, be sure to note the orientation of the traction clutch plate. The splined center hub is offset, and the plate needs to go back in the right way.

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