The thing that made the "one way" work was the humongous (large and heavy) tail wheel that followed the plow. Sometimes a box of dirt was positioned over it so that there wasn't so much steel and cost involved but got the desired result.
It had a way of overcoming inertia even on a 16' diagonal (as shown) plow. Twas one of the favorite sod busting plows here in the Blacklands of N. Texas years ago. Today they just use huge tractors and very heavy tandem disc harrows running over the field a couple of times.
I have used a single gang in a 3 point configuration, and you cannot control the tractor. The force of the plow working against the soil has a tremendous steering force that makes a single gang useless for me.
On the offset you have the second set of blades to counter the torque of the first set. Thing about them is that they work best the longer they are....the farther back the second gang is from the front....within reason. It's foot-pounds (of torque) you are dealing with.
The front gang is fighting uncut soil so there is a lot of twisting torque. The following gang is just putting dirt back so there is a lot less torque. Therefore to equalize torque, as said either raise the front gang to bite less thus offer less twisting torque, or get a long boom and set the rear gang farther to the rear to get some "feet" to go with the "pounds" of counter torque. Neighbor has one that is quite large and overall it's probably twice as long as wide for the reason stated.
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Today's Featured Article - Identifying Tractor Noises - by Curtis Von Fange. Listening To Your Tractor : Part 3 - In this series we are continuing to learn the fine art of listening to our tractor in hopes of keeping it running longer. One particularly important facet is to hear and identify the particular noises that our
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