I found a stator in shed removed from eng(s)that I did point conversion on & removed stator when I scrapped eng.First thing to check,if you had to tape trigger lead,check lead all the way back to stator,lead may be shorting to bearing plate or in clamp to hold wires to plate.
Next check resistance of coil for trigger module on stator,with trigger lead disconnected,read between lead & eng block/stator frame,my coil read .45 ohms(less than half an ohm),I don't know if this is correct or not as I didn't confirm what ign problem was with solid state ign,if Bob can find his stator or by you checking you're stator you may be able to confirm if .45 ohm is correct.
If the .45 ohms is correct & reading less than that possible causes could be trigger lead shorted to bearing plate,wire turns in coil shorted together or coil shorted to stator frame.Other possible cause of low voltage,magnets in flywheel missing/cracked.
If you are considering doing a point conversion be sure you know what you're getting into & do some checking BEFORE buying conversion kit & also ask yourself if you have elect knowledge/skills to do conversion as this is NOT just a 15-30 min job of slapping points,plunger,coil & condenser on eng & job done & you can walk away from it.
First thing as Bob said check on left side of cam gear cover to see if you have a series of 4 vertical tapped holes in block,if you don't have holes you can't do conversion,early factory conversions had holes,later eng with solid state ign didn't,next check flywheel cover for a hole/plug in hole or bearing plate for a hole/plug in hole in area between starter/block,you must have hole in either location in order to time ign after doing conversion either by static/timing light method,many of later solid state eng didn't have holes in either location due to ign timing being fixed.Next you'll have to decide after driving dowel pin/cap into eng for point plunger if you want to pull oil pan & remove pin/cap from eng or take your chances with same in pan as many of us do,instructions included with kit recommend removing pan.
Next check existing ign sw if same has a terminal that provides +12v when sw in on/run position,due to fact sw designed for magneto/solid state ign sw may/may no have terminal depending on how tractor wired & acc on tractor.If oem sw doesn't have a terminal for 12v supply you'll have to buy a new ign sw designed for battery ign,after that you'll still have to provide a +12v source to coil when cranking eng by either changing starter sol to a ford style sol,add a push button to dash or add an aux relay if replacement ign sw doesn't have an ign terminal that +12v is provided to while sw in on/run position & start position.
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