Actually quite easy, should be the same as my 112. Hardest part is adding the lift rod if it isn't there already. Lift kit is 2 pieces, a short pivot arm that bolts to front plate, bolt holes are drilled & tapped, close to left frame rail, think for 3/8 bolts. Other piece is rod that fastens to rocker shaft, just inside frame from our left heel, goes thru a square hole in front plate. Hole for a clevis pin is already there. These stay on the tractor when removing the blower. Pegs on blower fit in hooks at bottom of front side plates, then roll it back so spring loaded pins snap into holes at top of frame. Be sure you get the bar link, about 10-12 in long that connects arm on blower to the part you bolted to front plate. If this is missing, a short piece of light chain will work. Drive belt goes in outside groove of PTO pulley. Just clears the hood support. Tightener is spring loaded, has a short handle to grab. Try to find an operator's manual, has good pics & step by step instructions. Or shoot me an e-mail, can make copy & snail to you. Well engineered, can change from mower to tiller to blower in 15 minutes or less, only tools needed are your bare hands. Have even had all 3 on at same time when moving from city to lake home, saved on hand loading. WJ
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Today's Featured Article - Identifying Tractor Noises - by Curtis Von Fange. Listening To Your Tractor : Part 3 - In this series we are continuing to learn the fine art of listening to our tractor in hopes of keeping it running longer. One particularly important facet is to hear and identify the particular noises that our
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