I agree with the suggestion to check the linkage first to make sure that you are getting full travel on the hydro's control arm.
Keep in mind that Hydro-Gear makes many types of hydrostatic units that cover all the various price-points of lawn and garden tractors. The lower end hydro's are often the "sealed" units that were mentioned by another member in this thread.
Of course, you can expect the Hydro-Gear representative to tell you what he did. Who's to say as to how much he knows about hydro's? Just because he works there; that does not automatically make him an engineer or an expert. If changing out the oil was not a good thing, then why does Hydro Gear install drain and fill plugs, as well as filters, on their better units? If you don't think that oil deteriorates from use, then there are sites such as Bob is the oil guy that can explain in great detail why oil in hydro's needs to be changed after a certain amount of hours of use. This is not about "messing" with your hydro. To the contrary, it's about doing the one thing that not only extends the life of a hydro but also keeps the hydro performing as it was designed to perform.
From the moment that Yard Pro was put into use, the hydro began to wear and that wear began to contaminate the oil with metal particulate. That contamination stays in suspension in the oil and makes the oil more and more abrasive and that accelerates the wear.
Filters are added to hydro's to remove these contaminates down to a certain particle size but a filter will not clean the oil 100 percent. Only changing the oil can do that. In addition, hydrostatic drives require oil that has a stable viscosity. If your tractor shows good ground speed when first started up but that ground speed drops off noticeably once the tractor fully warms up, then that's a signal for an oil change. Your tractor.... your decision.
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