Update; I cant say for certain that the old coil was shot. A good bet, since finding the ignition key on. But I"ve redone the simple checks and measurements, and it all seems to fall in line. 1)Voltage at coil"sPlus terminal; 12V+ depending on the current charge state of the battery. (not that I"m doing excessive crank- ing, but I"ll keep recharging< I"m measuring the max. volts battery is capable of) 2)Internal resistance of coil; about 3.2 (and yes, I figured in the small value displayed when shorting the DMM leads) 3)Current flow thru coil/dis-connected from distributor, key on; 3.4 amps* (I read in this forum that 4 amps was the max. for a 12V coil.
??**If there was a problem with the points, or plugs- would the engine run fine for a while, then quit? ??**How do the these things add up?; a 12V con- version kit is sold with a 12V coil, but most of the discussions are pointing to around 6 volts across the points, am I right? So, add a resistor!!? The coil needs a min. of 10V to operate, true? What the coil "sees"(volts) is what the points are gonna get, yes? I don"t know anymore. I think I'm movin' on to a possible fuel flow issue. I"ll start a new thread. ((what is causing some words to be duplicated? In this forum and one previous I posted to. The word "bet", 2nd sentence of this post. It's just stupid!!))
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