Yes you can, if you want a quick fix. Place tractor on a level cement floor or solid surface, properly block the rear wheels, then place a jack under the transmission, close to the flywheel housing. You should have to remove the front axle to remove the oil pan. Please make sure you have your tractor completely safe to work on before you go under it! It should not move at all when you push - pull on it in any direction! I usually add hardwood blocking beside the jack and lower the weight until it contacts it.
DO NOT USE CINDER (cement) BLOCKS or bricks! Be safe! If it does not feel safe to you - ask for help! Now you can carefully remove the nose cone etc, unbolt and roll the front bolster and axle forward out of the way. Watch your body parts as it is very heavy, (the bolster will flop to one side) and is awkward to remove. (a good engine hoist works great to hold it steady)
I did a bearing roll on my 201 (engine in place) on my 555 Ford TLB. That should be the same engine you have.
Check your bearing clearances with plasti-gauge. I like to replace the oil pump when I get into an old engine anyway.
Any scoring on the crank that you can feel with your fingernail will mean that the crank must be removed. Also your bearings will be identified with the size, STD, -10 etc for ordering new parts. Identify all parts so they go back where they came from.
Clean up fasteners and use a thread locking compound of your choice to re-install the connecting rod nuts, or purchase new ones as they have been known to loosen off without it. Torque all fasteners to spec - don't guess!
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Today's Featured Article - History of the Nuffield Tractor - by Anthony West. The Nuffield tractor story started in early 1945. The British government still reeling from the effects of the war on the economy, approached the Nuffield organization to see if they would design and build an "ALL NEW" British built wheeled tractor, suitable for both British and world farming.
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