To tighten the brakes, insert a screwdriver into the slot and move the handle to-wards the rear axle (same both sides) and then slacken 6 - 8 "clicks". You should also check the independent brake pedal linkage that it isn't seized as this has an effect on the brakes. LIFT each pedal in turn and if the rod alongside the transmission bends then the pedal is seized and will need to be freed-of before they will work. You should also make sure that the Brake Rods down either side of the transmission are set for length correctly. Adjust the brakes to lock the wheel, now disconnect the brake rod at the front end and pull it hard to remove any play, you slacken the clevis on the rod and adjust it so that when you pull the rod hard the pin will just slide in the clevis and the brake lever, tighten lock nut and fit new cotter pin.Now adjust the brakes 6 - 8 clicks off. To test brakes, 3 rd gear and press brake pedal hard down. The tractor should drive in a straight line, if it veers off to one side, slack the adjuster on that side a couple of clicks. If there is any sign of an oil leak in the area of the brake drum then there may be oil on the brakes. Check that the transmission does not have too much oil by removing the bottom screw from either of the round inspection covers and allow any oil to run out. It will be slightly lower than normal but it will be OK and it could be that you don't need to change the seal for a while longer. If you need more info, just email me at the address below....John(UK)....fergusontractors@hotmail.com
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Today's Featured Article - Identifying Tractor Noises - by Curtis Von Fange. Listening To Your Tractor : Part 3 - In this series we are continuing to learn the fine art of listening to our tractor in hopes of keeping it running longer. One particularly important facet is to hear and identify the particular noises that our
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