THe mag can be used as a points and coil system. Inside is a set of points that trigger the spark in the mag. .013" gap It is wired by having the mag's points connect only to the grounding terminal on the side, and not internally to the mag's coil. This grounding terminal is now going to be used as the connection from both a condenser (good one) and an exterior coil. The removal of the rotor and internal "wall" hiding the points can lead to trouble if the rotor gets out of time, so I will describe a way to find out id the points are working as is. Disconnect the wires from the outside of the Mag where they attach to that terminal. Leave the spark plug wires and the cap as is. Connect a test light to a the non-ground terminal on the battery, and that terminal on the mag. Usually the light will now be shining, because the points provide ground when closed. With it in neutral, crank the engine and watch the light. if it flashes off and on, the points are at least working. If it does not light and does not flash when cranking, the points are either out of adjustment, or have an insulating corrosion on them, or the points are not wired to the terminal. No light or flash requires going into the mag to clean/set/wire. If flashing great. connect a good condenser to ground (like those shown but good) connect the lead to the terminal we have been testing along with another wire (12 gauge is good) that will reach the negative terminal of the good coil. Connect the Positive terminal of the coil to the non-grounded battery post with a clip so it is easy to hook and unhook. You now have a coil ignition system that should provide spark. The coil spark lead should go into the cap center on the mag. If it has fuel and spark it will run. The mag is set up with an impulse coupling that causes the magnet and mag system to be triggered into fast rotation when cranking the engine (starter or hand crank) this impulse coupling clicks rather loudly when it trips, and retards the spark so it is at TDC or just after. It should be audible when cranking. If it is not tripping, the timing will be advanced to the point that it could backfire and (if hand cranked) hurt the person cranking. If no clicks, the mag will need to be repaired to operate the impulse coupling. Pull starting the tractor would not be a problem with a faulty impulse coupling (assumes you have the background and help to safely pull start the tractor) THe best permanent repair is to either fix the mag, or find a correct distributor for a W9. If I recall correctly they turn counter clockwise, which is different than gas run IH/Farmall tractors, which will not work as donors. Good luck, it looks great. Jim
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Today's Featured Article - An Old-Time Tractor Demonstration - by Kim Pratt. Sam was born in rural Kansas in 1926. His dad was a hard-working farmer and the children worked hard everyday to help ends meet. In the rural area he grew up in, the highlight of the week was Saturday when many people took a break from their work to go to town. It was on one such Saturday in the early 1940's when Sam was 16 years old that he ended up in Dennison, Kansas to watch a demonstration of a new tractor being put on by a local dealer. It was an Allis-Chalmers tractor dealership,
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