Try having the lights on and using the starter. If the lights do not dim when the starter is (supposed to be) turning, the starter, or switch is "open". This means it is not actually getting current running through it. The next step is to find out if the switch is failing to make contact with the starter stud under the switch. (a point of failure that is common) To check if this is at fault, look at the switch and you will see a plunger that has a spring on it. If your tractor has a pull rod, the plunger will come in from the rear of the tractor towards the front. If it has a push rod to activate the starter, it will have the plunger come in from the front toward the rear. Remove a terminal from the battery and keep it from touching anything. Remove the starter switch then, if you have an ohm meter, a test of the resistance between the starter stud and ground should show Zero ohms. (NO resistance) It actually measures in the tenths of an ohm. If it has high resistance, (no conduction, meter does nothing) the starter is open, meaning it needs to be checked by a automotive electrical shop and repaired/rebuilt. It could have a broken wire, solder joint, or copper conductor inside, or it could have a hanging brush. If it has good continuity (conducts), the switch needs to be modified a little to make good connection with the stud on the starter. Use a chainsaw file or small rat tail file to elongate the mounting holes of the switch in the direction that allows the plunger to move farther toward the starter stud (about 1/8" will do). Then remount the switch and tighten so it is moved!. Then reconnect the battery, (put it in Neutral) and try it. Best of luck, Jim
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Today's Featured Article - Identifying Tractor Noises - by Curtis Von Fange. Listening To Your Tractor : Part 3 - In this series we are continuing to learn the fine art of listening to our tractor in hopes of keeping it running longer. One particularly important facet is to hear and identify the particular noises that our
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