1. Time the governor to the carb. Disconnect the carburetor throttle rod clevis from the governor arm. Tractor off, set the throttle lever to full throttle. Adjust the length of the throttle rod by turning the clevis until the pin slips through easily with the carburetor throttle pulled wide open.
2. Adjust the reaction spring. Rev the tractor from idle to full. It should snap right to, with no "bounce" to the RPM. If it bounces, you need to remove the acorn nut from the bottom of the governor, loosen the lock nut, and turn the screw in 1/8 to 1/4 turn at a time until the engine revs up to full RPM with one RPM bounce at most. If the engine surges at full throttle, you need to turn this screw OUT 1/8 to 1/4 turn at a time until you find a happy medium.
3. Adjust the high idle RPM. This is the screw on the top of the governor. Out is more RPMs. In is less RPMs. It should run at, I think, 1600RPM wide open with no load.
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulics - Cylinder Anatomy - by Curtis von Fange. Let’s make one more addition to our series on hydraulics. I’ve noticed a few questions in the comment section that could pertain to hydraulic cylinders so I thought we could take a short look at this real workhorse of the circuit. Cylinders are the reason for the hydraulic circuit. They take the fluid power delivered from the pump and magically change it into mechanical power. There are many types of cylinders that one might run across on a farm scenario. Each one could take a chapter in
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