The First thing is to determine what is causing the starter to stop. If there is a short, or bad bushings in the starter motor, it will drag on the field windings and draw massive current. I believe the starter needs to be rebuilt with new bushings, new (and better design) drive pinion, new brushes, and a turned commutator. Any good auto electric shop can do it and do it well. The second issue is the extra wire on the starter motor stud. That wire probably goes to the coil. It is likely to be a resistor bypass. This allows the coil to operate on starting voltage while cranking. If the starter motor is dragging, the engine would start but not have enough juice to make the ignition work just as the starter switch is released. Thus the start and stop situation. It is needed. The ballast resistor is near the coil (if it has one). The wire from the starter should attach to the coil side of the resistor, and must have a diode in it to prevent voltage from going backwards to the starter from the ignition. The switches are garbage I do not think anyone here has found a good source of good switches yet. If it were mine I would use a starter relay out of a 12v ford from 1962) connect it so it gets full battery voltage directly to the terminal near the S small terminal. Hook the S terminal to a #12 wire going to the existing (smoking) starter button, and hook the other Smoking switch button to the Battery Positive with a #12 wire. (this just uses the poor switch for low current control of the Ford relay. The I terminal of the relay can be hooked up directly to the coil input terminal bypassing the resistor without the diode (no feedback possible). The last terminal (big) goes to the starter stud. (the Small wire there is no longer needed)
If your alternator is a three wire setup, it should be left alone (but tested) If it is a one wire setup, or if that pesky wire goes to the alternator. Let us know and we will get that operating correctly as well. Jim
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