Gordo's method is pretty solid. His example of the fender seems to be right on IMO. You can see that there were spots that were down to bare metal and other spots that had existing paint and primer on them. You have to go down to bare metal (on sheet metal) if you want a good finish.
You should use a high build primer and block it out if you want a good, smooth finish. An important thing to remember is paint fills NOTHING. It actually magnifies most imperfections. If your primed and blocked surface doesn't look just like you want your painted surface to look you have to keep sanding and priming. Body filler for minimal filling never hurts either.
I am with you. Your tractors are what I like to call "parade ready." They look good at 50' when they are always moving, but when the parade is over and you walk up to it and really look they aren't perfect. I have found any CL (or other sales place) ad that says parade ready is not up to my stadards. Most are just pressure wash and paint jobs. I REALLY hate when people just paint over bad wiring and leaky seals/gaskets.
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Today's Featured Article - The 8N and the Fox - by Zane Sherman. Dec. 13 1998, Renfroe, Alabama. Last niht I dreamed about the day that I plowed the field of about 10 acres over on what Jimmy and Dandy called the Ledbetter field. I was driving the 1948 8N Ford tractor that Jimmy bought in 48 new This was prebably in about 1951 and maybe even befor the house was built. This would have made me to be about16 years old and I drove the tractor for nothing and would have paid to drive it if I had had any money which I didn't, but neit
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