From my own experience in getting some tough ones free, a quarter inch hole drilled through the center section right at the point where the end of the knee tube rides inside the center tube allows penetrating oil to get just where it is needed most. The axle knee tube is " belled" on the end and there is little clearance between the outside diameter of the knee tube and the inside diameter of the center tube. Drill the hole just through the top side of the center tube, put in some oil and heat it good all the way around the center tube where the end of the knee tube will be on the inside of the center tube. The rustiest place will be on the bottom insides of the tubes due to water going in the adjustment spacing holes of the knee tubes. Once you get the knees out, clean and sand inside of center tube and outside of knee tubes . Spot of welding to close the small drilled hole, grind it smooth, paint where needed and lube things good before putting back together.
I remembered seeing this discussed on Red Power a few years ago. Here is address to site. They had some good ideas .
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Today's Featured Article - A Farmall Story - by Ed Meadors. The year was 1978. Our young family had recently moved to rural Chesapeake, Virginia to a plot of land which would finally allow us to realize our dreams of a huge garden, critters and more lawn and pasture than we would ever use! We needed a TRACTOR; not a riding mower or tractor wannabe, but a real TRACTOR. The answer to our needs materialized in the form of a '44 Farmall A, complete with cultivators, discs, single plow, a 5ft.Woods belly mower and one, mounted spare 9.00x24 rear wheel.
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