No split required. Pull pump out if equipped. Remove clutch shaft and related parts. Photo the coupler and be patient. Loosening the clutch disk, or putting three of the clutch cover bolts (from 120 degrees apart) into holes near the levers to compress the clutch. and holding your mouth just right will allow the shaft to come out. Then pull the flange off. a puller, or using the shaft yolk as a puller against the shaft with a socket to push on (center bolt removed) will get the drive yolk off, then just pry out the old seal. Check for a groove in the yolk, and if it is easily felt, I would speedy sleeve it, or run the new seal in a different depth to provide a good seal. Jim
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Today's Featured Article - Oliver 550 Purchaser Checklist - by Greg Sheppard. Pound for pound the 550 is better than anything I've seen. It has great power for its size and can really hunker down and lug. Classified as a 3-bottom plow depending on soil conditions. I personally don't think it can be beat for a utility tractor in the 40 HP range. They are extremely thrifty on fuel, at least my DSL is. Most drive train parts are fairly easy to get. Sheet metal is probably the hardest thing to
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