The issue may not be the key. If it will crank with the key in the start position, and will run (if it fires when the key is turned to run) in the run position, it may be OK. Most key switches maintain the ignition connection when starting because it is not a separate switching action. The ignition coil may not be firing while cranking because of low voltage to it. Low voltage can be caused by a weak battery. A set of too small battery cables (00gauge is needed, including ground strap) a out of spec ballast resistor (if it has one) a poor coil 12 v coil with no external resistor required used with a ballast resistor. or combination's of these issues. A 6 volt coil needs at least five volts when cranking (it will have an external resistor) a full 12v coil (No resistor required) needs at least 10 volts when cranking. A 12v coil that needs a resistor is just like a six volt coil in reality, and needs 5v at least when cranking. If there is voltage when cranking, it is the amount that is an issue. If none, it might be the key. Good luck, JimN
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Today's Featured Article - Oliver 550 Purchaser Checklist - by Greg Sheppard. Pound for pound the 550 is better than anything I've seen. It has great power for its size and can really hunker down and lug. Classified as a 3-bottom plow depending on soil conditions. I personally don't think it can be beat for a utility tractor in the 40 HP range. They are extremely thrifty on fuel, at least my DSL is. Most drive train parts are fairly easy to get. Sheet metal is probably the hardest thing to
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