If there was no electricity going to it, and it still spun, the drive is in need of replacement. There is a new clutch style drive at the caseih dealer that is much better than the old style. If the copper pisec you refer to is the contact that is located on the side of the starter motor casing, and is just a "bump" of copper, it is originally intended to be a switch contact, and not be connected to with a cable. In this case, it may have had threads put in it to hold a cable with your non stock setup. A motor repair shop can install a new stud through the case with the ability to put an official nut on the real threads. It is possible to silver solder an adapter bolt to the stud you have, but W/O taking it all the way apart, the heat will melt the insulator. Best of luck, JimN
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Today's Featured Article - Oliver 550 Purchaser Checklist - by Greg Sheppard. Pound for pound the 550 is better than anything I've seen. It has great power for its size and can really hunker down and lug. Classified as a 3-bottom plow depending on soil conditions. I personally don't think it can be beat for a utility tractor in the 40 HP range. They are extremely thrifty on fuel, at least my DSL is. Most drive train parts are fairly easy to get. Sheet metal is probably the hardest thing to
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