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Crawlers, Dozers, Loaders & Backhoes Discussion Board

Re: D4 CAT PONY MOTOR STARTING INSTRUCTIONS


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Posted by Billy NY on April 10, 2006 at 10:42:21 from (64.12.117.6):

In Reply to: D4 CAT PONY MOTOR STARTING INSTRUCTIONS posted by Bryan Kneebone on April 10, 2006 at 07:10:41:

Principle is the same as the JD 720 I'm sure, that ought to be helpful experience.

Master clutch should be in neutral, transmission in neutral, ( when the diesel is running, and if left unattended or used for stationary work, leave the transmission in neutral and the clutch engaged, keeps it from accidentally popping into gear and I think is less wear on the pilot bearing, something along those lines, again don't quote me )

One thing to remember about these, they are not high tech. little motors, keep your oil clean, the carburetors on these can and do leak down gasoline, which will thin the motor oil, so always be on the lookout for that, if you do not drain the bowl down somehow, let it run out of gas by shutting the petcock on the sediment bowl or tank after the diesel fires.

The fuel tanks often contain lots of rust and your fuel supply can get clogged easily, that and keeping your magneto & ingition system firing a hot spark, champion plugs don't seem to perform well from what many people have said and used solid core conductor plug wires, with copper wire, not like modern plug wires.

Reason I mention this is, starting motors can be problematic if not taken care of, and the gasoline in the oil thing will certainly thing the oil to the point where you could toss a rod.

Once the pony is running, make sure the diesel compression lever is on start, then engage your pinion, you should have a pinion lever and a clutch lever, disengage the clutch and engage the pinion, then engage the cltuch and the diesel should spin, if cold out, let the diesel spin awhile, pinion should stay locked in, (if not it needs adjustment or something is wrong ) always wait for oil pressure to build up, you can turn the compression lever to half or run after a little while, the pony may die bog down, sometimes you might back off the compression and try again, but eventually the diesel will build up heat, and will not resist as much, and it will spin with compression on, then open the fuel and it should start popping, you'll see some white smoke and if its got good compression it will fire right up. When it does, it should disengage the pinion by centrifugal force, however, I keep a hand on the throttle linkage and am always ready to stop it from overspeeding the pony, another little thing to watch for.

ALso, I'm not familiar with the D-6's to D-2's starting engine, but the principle is the same.

I'm also not sure if the diesel needs to spin to circulate coolant, so you may want to check that prior to firing it up and letting it run without spinning the diesel, on my D7, you have to spin the diesel or you will overheat the pony.

Once my diesel fires, I found a way to drain the bowl with a petcock, takes too long to run out, then I know nothing can drain into the oil.

These are great for the bitter cold starts, direct start conversions can be done and do have associated costs, not cheap, same for rebuilding a starting motor, direct start does not allow you to build oil pressure and warming the coolant, kind of conditioning the diesel prior to starting. There are preferences for either direct start or a starting engine, I like the benefits you get for these old tech diesels from a starting engine, I think the later models after the starting engines were phased out, were better suited for direct start, but don't quote me, often wondered if a starting engine prolonged the life of the diesel because of how it gets the oil circulating etc. prior to firing up. Interesting topic there.

You can find the operators instructions, serviceman's reference book, and parts catalog on e-bay, and through Cat's legendary literature program, all three are well worth having. You can find good originals on e-bay, the ones from Cat are excellent reprints, beware of lesser quality ones, usually the spiral bound photcopied ones, won't mention the name of the outfit providing those. You need to match these manuals to the serial number of your tractor, just make sure the serial number of yours falls within the range of serial numbers of what the manuals say on the cover.

I do stand to be corrected here, this is a quick lunchtime response here, FYI your cap. locks are on.


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