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Discussion Board - 'Nother Question

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Allan in NE

05-07-2005 07:41:33




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Okay,

Tryin' to learn this dryland farming technique and this is all just pure speculation at this point 'cause the land deal is far from being completed yet.

But, if a guy wanted to sow alfalfa into an established grass hay field, what's the proper way to do it? Just drill over the top of the grass in the fall? In the spring?

Allan




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ChrisLinSD

05-09-2005 09:16:33




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 Re: 'Nother Question in reply to Allan in NE, 05-07-2005 07:41:33  
have you heard about naked or hulless oats (maybe even called forage oats) he latest dakota farmer had a story on them don"t take a lot of moisture, great feed, and the straw is better than any prairie hay you could put up - so they eat that too.....

at only one cutting of alfalfa per year - that is an expensive crop

i have also never heard of planting it in the fall



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slats

05-09-2005 04:58:01




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 Re: 'Nother Question in reply to Allan in NE, 05-07-2005 07:41:33  
I am thinking about same thing and extension agent said burn with roundup and wait 10days or so and then drill in with no tillage. got to late last year but am going to do it this year



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John A.

05-08-2005 17:46:28




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 Re: 'Nother Question in reply to Allan in NE, 05-07-2005 07:41:33  
Allan, My experience on High Plains Alfalfa was on an irrigated field, planted in the fall /w wheat as the cover crop. You need a real seed bed!!!
It seems to me the problem is to get this grass patch back to a field then to an alfalfa patch.
Now! Here is the RUB. I will assume the soil type is sandy Like most of the High Plains. When is the rainy time in the fall for this place?
When is the Windest time of the year too.
Getting the seed bed prepped and planted and the cover crop going so this field doesn't Blow All winter long. Or then you will be fighting sand and that will require chieseling with "Beaver tails" to ruff up the land and stop it from blowing.
Back to your original question.....You first need a true seed bed, then plant in the fall with a cover crop. I would say chiesel it 2 or 3 times in different directions. get the soil loosened up and still keep some roughness to the soil. (So it doesnt blow for as long as possible.
Hopefully it rains in your area sometime in mid Sept to early Oct.
Just before the rainy time fall in and disk it 2 or 3 times to get a good seedbed. Then be ready to plant either just prior to the fall rains. Or if you prefer to wait till after you get enough rain to "Lap the moisture" then plant. I prefer the second and hope you get a second rain to retie the moisture..Hope this helps Allan.
Later,
John A.

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paul

05-08-2005 07:17:42




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 Re: 'Nother Question in reply to Allan in NE, 05-07-2005 07:41:33  
As Kyhayman says, alfalfa does not compete well with established grass even in a wet location like mine. It also likes water to start out so it is planted in the wet spring or damp early fall around here. They suggest in the wet here to put a herd of cattle in the grass in early spring until it about looks black, then plant alfalfa into that. By the time the alfalfa gets established, the sod is back to growing well again, and one has mixed hay. But most of us want pure alfalfa anyhow so that theory is rarely tested - if you are going to plant a crop, might as well plant a good solid alfalfa stand.

In the dry, you would not want much of anything competing with the alfalfa, I'd think you need to kill the sod. But I've always farmed swamp land, so I don't know. Had 2 inches of rain the past few days, had 5 inches in April, and they are predicting rain for 5 of the next 7 days. Sigh.

--->Paul

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Allan in NE

05-08-2005 07:52:22




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 Re: 'Nother Question in reply to paul, 05-08-2005 07:17:42  
Thanks Paul,

That really makes sense. Lemme throw another at ya.

All things considered, which is the better return on the dollar? A two-year rotation of wheat or a single cutting per year on alfalfa hay?

Thanks, I appreciate the help; this dry-land farming is totally foreign to me.

All I do know is that it looks as though I'd better be getting that silly plow bought. :>(

Allan



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paul

05-09-2005 07:09:52




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 Re: 'Nother Question in reply to Allan in NE, 05-08-2005 07:52:22  
Last 2 times I tried to grow wheat here, got a 62 cent per bu dockage for low protien, followed by a yield of 15 bu/acre the following year. I at least made some money on selling the straw, but not growing wheat again.... Just can't get it right. I do much better with oats, get 80+ bu/acre, more straw....

I have a few cattle on my small corn/soy farm, and get great benifit from rotating 18 acres of alfalfa (I tend to rotate the alfalfa bit quickly, 3-4 years, rather than the 5-6 years which gives me more start-up costs but get the soil rotation going faster) & 10% of my land in oats. Weeds, manure handling, insects, fertility, and soil tilth all seem better in the long term with some rotation beyond corn/ soybeans every year like many of the neighbors.... Perhaps I lose $5-10 an acre in the short term, but over 10 years..... :)

Just can't relate to 1 cutting of alfalfa tho..... :)

If you need the alfalfa or it brings good money, a small portion of alfalfa would look good to me in the big, long-term picture. But there are a lot of numbers to consider that I wouldn't know.... You need to consider equipment costs & labor costs - monoculture of wheat will not take much machinery, but boy the risk of decreasing yields & resistant weeds is very real, while raising alfalfa will take a whole different line of machinery, spread your work load, takes a year to establish....

You can see which way I lean, but I tend to go upstream a lot to what others that know more than me do.....

--->Paul

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kyhayman

05-07-2005 17:53:30




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 Re: 'Nother Question in reply to Allan in NE, 05-07-2005 07:41:33  
Hi Allan, Not sure how well this applies to you out there in the 'great desert' :-). My expereinces are tainted by 60" of rainfall.

I would not seed alfalfa into established vegetation. To me, seeding in the dry areas of the US are perfect locations for notil. Increased moisture retention, less wind erosion, etc (I did study in the Dakotas some (took a couple of range management classes), so I am not totally a foreigner to dry weather).

I'd go with a burn down before the existing grass has used up all the soil water, soon after green up as you can. Then drill notill into the sod. I would expect the alfalfa to not compete with the established sod for limited moisture very well without a burn down.

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