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Discussion Board - Tomatoes Tips . Add yours .

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alvinnms

02-29-2004 13:24:25




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I found this on another site. I don't know if it will work yet. alvinnms

You can save a plant that's been badly damaged by thunderstorms and wind. A strong July thunderstorm can wreak havoc on plants that are staked or caged, breaking or nearly breaking off the individual vines that are laden with rapidly-growing tomatoes. Duct tape is not pretty but works for "bandaging" and stabilizing vines that are not completely severed. It must be applied gently, of course, and shaped carefully around broken vines. A more aesthetically pleasing bandage is made from melted candle wax shaped by hand over the near-breaks. The last time this disaster struck my garden - about 4 years ago (pre-drought days) - I used ugly old silver duct tape. It worked, and the tomatoes pulled through just fine. I think the birds appreciated the winking silver specks in the tomato patch, too.

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Ernest

02-29-2004 20:23:33




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 Re: Tomatoes Tips . Add yours . in reply to alvinnms, 02-29-2004 13:24:25  
Anyway, Tomatoes love acid soil....so keep you pH in the low ranges 5 or so. I prefer caging my tomotoes as they grow taller and more fuller with the extra support. One of the things that I do to insure that they get plenty of water at the roots, (where it is most important) is to cut the bottoms out of plastic milk jugs or soad bottles and bury one (neck down) next to each plant. When it is time to water the tomato plants I just fill the jug up with water with a little c-kelp extract and allow it to be absorbed into the root structure. This is better than watering them from on top of the ground as water tends to evaporate and much of it does not make it to the roots. but dont forget to foliar spray with the seaweed once or twice a week to help keep the plant stiff and firm up the fruit. I also sucker the tomato plants. Once you have a stem producing flowers or tomatoes you break off the ones that are not producing. This allows the plant to send more nutrients to the fruit producing stems. To prevent cut worms I plant the young tomato plant inside a toilet paper tube. I gentle slip the tube over the young plant and bury it a couple of inches in the soil at the same time I transplant the plant to my garden. The cut worms will be unable to climb onto the stem of the plant and leave them alone. I also like to plant onions/garlic/basil near my plants these are great companions to tomatoes and help prevent several insects that like tomatoes but, hate onions/garlic/basil from attacking you beefsteaks and damaging them. I never use chemicals on my plants and have had many successful gardens of tomatoes by using these methods. My experience has proven successful in several states as well, from Pennslyvania, North Carolina, Florida, and now Missouri. Hope it helps you as much. When you harvest your beauties make sure to pick some of the stem and leaf to, a way to trick the fruit in to thinking it is still on the vine for sweeter tastes later on. let us know and we will give you some of our canning recipes. Meli has a great one for spagetti sauce and another great one for salsa. Sincerely, Ernest

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alvinnms

02-29-2004 20:19:06




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 Re: Tomatoes Tips . Add yours . in reply to alvinnms, 02-29-2004 13:24:25  
Common Problems Insects: Tomato hornworms are large (two to three inches long when fully grown), green worms with white stripes on their bodies. A horn protrudes from the top, rear end of the worm. Tomato hornworms feed on the leaves and fruit, and several worms on one plant can quickly defoliate it. They are difficult to see when small. Hand pick the worms or use a suggested biological insecticide.

Tomato fruit worms are almost sure to be found in the garden. The moth lays the eggs in the terminal (top growth of the plant), then the larvae (small worms) hatch and make their way to the fruit. Once the larva is inside the fruit, it's too late to save that fruit. Use the recommended insecticide every seven days.

Diseases: Verticillium and fusarium wilt are seedborne diseases that cause yellowing of the leaves, wilting, and premature dying of the plant. These diseases will persist in gardens where susceptible plants are grown. Once they build up, the only practical control is the use of resistant (VF) varieties.

Early blight is characterized by dead brown spots that usually start on the lower leaves and spread up the plant. Upon close inspection, you can see concentric rings within the spots. Although early blight is most severe on the leaves, it sometimes occurs on the stems; it can cause defoliation. You may need to use fungicide sprays to achieve high yields and quality fruit. Some varieties are more tolerant of early blight than others. Remove diseased leaves from the garden and dispose of them.

Septoria leafspot is characterized by numerous small black spots on the leaves. The center of these spots later turn white, and tiny black dots appear in the white center. The disease starts on the bottom leaves and may become severe in wet weather. Use suggested fungicides for control.

Physiological disorders: Blossom-end rot, a dry, leathery rot of the blossom end of the fruit, is common in home-grown tomatoes. It is caused by a combination of calcium deficiency with wide fluctuations in soil moisture. Severe pruning causes stress to the plants that increases the incidence of blossom-end rot. Some tomatoes are much more susceptible to this condition than others. Mulching and uniform watering will help prevent blossom-end rot.

Poor color and sunscald occur when high temperatures retard the development of full red color in tomatoes exposed directly to the sun. Sunscald appears on the fruit during hot, dry weather as a large, whitish area. It becomes a problem when foliage has been lost through other diseases, such as early blight.

Diseases: early blight, septoria leafspot, verticillium and fusarium wilts, late blight, tobacco mosaic virus, bacterial spot, tomato spotted wilt virus.

Insects: flea beetle, hornworm, stink bugs, Colorado potato beetle, fruitworm, aphids, mites, whiteflies, cutworms

Other Pests: nematodes

Cultural: blossom-end rot, irregular soil moisture or calcium deficiency; poor color, yellow spots or large whitish-grey spots, sunscald from lack of foliage cover; leaf roll; fruit cracking, irregular soil moisture; Black Walnut wilt, caused by roots of tomato plants coming in contact with roots of black walnut trees

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Geo in SD

03-02-2004 05:43:41




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 Re: Re: Tomatoes Tips . Add yours . in reply to alvinnms, 02-29-2004 20:19:06  
Mix Miracle-Gro and Viagra and apply as plants are growing. Never have to stake them!



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dad

03-01-2004 17:33:15




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 Re: Re: Tomatoes Tips . Add yours . in reply to alvinnms, 02-29-2004 20:19:06  
Buy mine in a can.



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