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Discussion Board - piling manure question

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Dave from MN

11-22-2007 09:33:48




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Alright, I have clean out in a month, have been the manure for the last 2 years, spread it in January the first year here. I am selling the bulk of it, but am keeping enough to spread and till in right away in the spring for my corn ground. What do you think is the best pile to make. Is it better to heap and make as big as possible like a big ol teepee(sp?) or pile it like a silage bag shape. FYI my inquiry is more directed at nutient retention more than anything.

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buickanddeere

12-28-2007 06:01:05




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 Re: piling manure question in reply to Dave from MN, 11-22-2007 09:33:48  
Pile and let it compost for a months. Spread in spring and work in immediately.



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Larry806

11-23-2007 09:20:03




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 Re: piling manure question in reply to Dave from MN, 11-22-2007 09:33:48  
I handle quite a bit of shicken chit every year . I have over 350 ton pilled now waiting to be spread . From a handling and spreading point of view pile it , pile it high as you can .



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Dave from MN

11-23-2007 10:22:23




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 Re: piling manure question in reply to Larry806, 11-23-2007 09:20:03  
Thats a bit more than i will have out. I get about 300 ton out of the barn, figure I am keeping 100 tons and the buyer gets the rest. This is pretty potent poop, breeder barn, very, very few shaings only from the scratching area. Otherwise all $hit and eggs.



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Larry806

11-23-2007 14:17:33




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 Re: piling manure question in reply to Dave from MN, 11-23-2007 10:22:23  
I use compost , layer and pullet . First choice is compost but it is expense . Next is DRY layer . This is pullet that was delivered on Wed .When I spread that it looks like snow on the fields . With all the feathers in it , it doesn't flow very well . And with all the feathers in it its still quite a bit heaver than layer . The pullet has a lot more N in it . The layer has about 700 lbs on lime to the ton .
My problem is my spreader . I have a Doyle 16 ft box and the web is narrow . If it gets wet it won't flow that is why I say pile it high to shed water

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pair-a-dice farm

11-23-2007 07:20:10




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 Re: piling manure question in reply to Dave from MN, 11-22-2007 09:33:48  
I have broiler houses and rarely stack litter outside but when I do I pile it as high as I can. In my opinion, the least amount of surface area that is exposed to the weather the better. Rainfall washes away a lot of nutrients. I would cover it up if at all possible. Pileing it up will heat it up more. I have had spots in the middle of a pile that were burned but this is rare. I also think that the odor is reduced when it goes through a heat.

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IaGary

11-23-2007 03:43:10




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 Re: piling manure question in reply to Dave from MN, 11-22-2007 09:33:48  
Would it save time and labor to spread it as you clean out?

I don't think the nutrient loss will be as great as the loss from driving over the soft ground in the spring and compacting your soil.

I like to spread cattle manure on frozen ground for that reason.

I assume you are dealing with chicken manure and think it would be the same.

The smell may not be as bad either after a couple of days.

Gary

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Dave from MN

11-23-2007 05:32:42




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 Re: piling manure question in reply to IaGary, 11-23-2007 03:43:10  
That is what we did the 1st year here, and what the previous owner did for 15 years. Doing some research on poo, I found that by not tilling it in and allowing it to dry, i lose about 70% of the available nitrogen in the 1st eight hours after been applied. I believe it said after 24 hours you retain only about 10% of the available nitrogen. I also have a pond that the spring melt seems to carry alot of brown poopy water to. My soil is compacted from years and years of heavy equipment and no or min tillage from the farmer that rented, some places the corn this year came up 4 inches and just died because it couldnt penetrate the soil after the top 2-3". The ground was disced this fall, I was planning to spread it and work it in good with a chisel-vator, or disc it in. This way there is only gonna be a day of the smell rather than from meltdown to tillage warmth. This is what I thought, but I may be wrong.

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agpilot

11-24-2007 17:59:05




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 To: Dave from MN in reply to Dave from MN, 11-23-2007 05:32:42  
Hello Dave from MN: Where did you find information that shows the loss of 70% nitrogen in the first 8 hours??? Also, any link where I might read that compares the amount of gases that one could get from dairy cow manure. I know methane is the most but what amounts of the next most toxic gases might be released into the air. So far I've read that hydrogen sulfide seems to be the most nasty but I don't know what amount is in cow manure compared to methane. Looking for details. Thanks for any links. agpilot (also MN)

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Dave from MN

11-26-2007 06:49:16




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 Re: To: Dave from MN in reply to agpilot, 11-24-2007 17:59:05  
I'll have to double check, it was U of MN ag site I beleive, but it also may have been a university from another state. I'll do some backtracking and post the link.



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paul

11-23-2007 23:13:27




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 Re: piling manure question in reply to Dave from MN, 11-23-2007 05:32:42  
Spring up here is a tough time to put down fert & run a chisel plow. Works sometimes, but hard to plan for. If wet, spreader compacts, chisel will smear & seal the ground, takin the compaction down deep.

Could you have spread the manure this fall & then disk the ground? Would be a better plan, if it fails to happen you still have spring to do something. now if your plan fails to bad weather, little recource.

What I do is spread the manure into the oats stubble, the blow-over oats is regrowing & uses much of the nutrients including the N tht comes loose. When you work the oats regrowth back intot he ground, you reclaim much of the nutrients. Can wait on tillage but not loose very much.

I think you don't lose quite so much N anyhow. The tree huggers like to overstate that. You really can't lose more than 1/3 of 1/2 the first year, and again 1/3 of the other half the next year. Manure pack doesn't break down that fast, takes 2 years. You don't lose 90%, as 1/2 of it doesn't even become available - not lost. Unless this is liquid manure you were dealing with - that fitters away quicker. Most manure studies these days are on liquid manure, which does not transfer well to solid manure pack. Different products, behave differently.

--->Paul

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IaGary

11-23-2007 06:08:17




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 Re: piling manure question in reply to Dave from MN, 11-23-2007 05:32:42  
I didn't realize the loss would be that great onthe nitrogen.

But sounds like the chisel plow in the spring will help the compaction.

Gary



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paul

11-22-2007 19:14:29




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 Re: piling manure question in reply to Dave from MN, 11-22-2007 09:33:48  
The less exposed to the elements, the more you keep.

High & round.

--->Paul



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Sam#3

11-22-2007 11:12:39




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 Re: piling manure question in reply to Dave from MN, 11-22-2007 09:33:48  
I'm reminded of the three degrees of education:

BS- We all know what that is.
MS- More of the Same.
PHD- Piled Higher and Deeper

Pile it, in the most convient manner for piling and reloading, on your garden spot or a spot with the thinest soil. and retain any loss of content. If mine, for sale, I'd go high and deep. I think it would easier to reload.



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Dave from MN

11-22-2007 09:35:30




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 Re: piling manure question in reply to Dave from MN, 11-22-2007 09:33:48  
Whoops should have read-"have been SELLING the manure for the last 2 years"



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JMS/.MN

11-22-2007 09:53:03




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 Re: piling manure question in reply to Dave from MN, 11-22-2007 09:35:30  
What I see around here is loads on semi trailers with live bottoms, so the pile looks like the silo bags. Peaking it would just involve more labor and equipment.



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JMS/.MN

11-22-2007 09:55:52




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 Re: piling manure question in reply to JMS/.MN, 11-22-2007 09:53:03  
Best if you can put it 'out of view' of the non-farming neighbors. Few years ago the local watershed board member's 'contribution' to the meeting was that he had spotted a manure pile. I suspect that he had walked by a large mirror.



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