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OT chickens

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Lanse

11-28-2007 16:09:39




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Sorry for the OT. Another one of the things died today, and they have all stopped laying a month ago. I figure the 30 layers have cost me over $400 this summer. I know someone of whom will take them off my hands for next to nothing. This is a huge loss on me- i am very POed right now. Only 2 are molting, they are all having diheria and coughting alot.
Like i have said, some of them are my pets, which i will not let go of. There may be some diesese causing this, and i do not want it passed on to the next flock (day old chicks i will soon order). What should i do? I estimate about 9 chickens and one guinea will be kept. Also, i plan to sanatise the coop somehow. It is getting a thourough cleaning, and i am taking a sledge hammer to many parts of it (crappy ancient wood nest boxes, in effective roosts). I figure if its worth doing, its worth doing right. This whole thing has not only been a money eating experience, but a learning one. I guess i wont be buying any more full grown birds anymore. Snyone wanting a few birds??

Was planning on putting this off till spring, but i guess its not waiting any longer. Meat birds may still wait till spring.

So i am going on a rampage with a sledge hammer tomorrow, destroying old roosts and boxes. Planning to paint the inside of the coop on the weekend. I knew this was coming for a few mounts when problems started coming up, but i never guessed this soon. I guess ill have to spend more to do it all again. Sorry for the rant, and thanks in advance.

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Dave Sherburne NY

11-29-2007 10:51:57




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 Re: OT chickens in reply to Lanse, 11-28-2007 16:09:39  
Lots of websites regarding chicken disease just type in chicken diseases in Google

Link



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johnand cindy

11-29-2007 08:45:51




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 Re: OT chickens in reply to Lanse, 11-28-2007 16:09:39  
Lanse, You have to do everything Dave wrote I will add 1 more thing ware a resperator,safety glasses and what I call muck boots while in the coop its cheap insurance for your health.



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rgvtx

11-28-2007 19:51:35




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 Re: OT chickens in reply to Lanse, 11-28-2007 16:09:39  
third party image

Lanse,
Sorry to hear of your troubles with the chickens. I have about 40 layers and rarely have any problems, although now and then I loose one that's at the bottom of the pecking chain. When I find one that's being picked on and is still alive, I pull her out and put her in a small box for several days to get her energy back and then turn her back in with the others. Been real lucky so far.
Anyway, there is a reall great site you can go to and learn from others experience with animals. The address is www dot homesteadingtoday dot com
Go down to the poultry link and read away, great information and great folks that are willing to help.

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Iowa Jim

11-28-2007 19:25:30




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 Re: OT chickens in reply to old, 11-28-2007 16:09:39  
Lanse:

What are you feeding your birds?
Do you have adequate lighting to maintain laying with the shore days?

Is the feed fresh and clean?

How many sources of birds did you purchase your birds from?

If animals are fed inadequate diets the effect of disease can easily be magnified.

Jim



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Lanse

11-28-2007 18:45:45




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 Re: OT chickens in reply to Lanse, 11-28-2007 16:09:39  
My birds are always in clean surroundings, and always have all the food they want. I keep their coop clean, and rouinly change straw. I never let them get thirsty, i dont know where dieseases are coming from. Is there some kind of bug bomb i can use? Or something like that? I am thinking about temperarily removing the keepers to...i dont know...the garage of something, and then clean out all the straw. MAbey after that, should i go around in there holding my breath splashing bleach all over the place then let it air out, for a day or two, then paint over it? Thanks in advance.

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Thack

11-28-2007 19:38:40




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 Re: OT chickens in reply to Lanse, 11-28-2007 18:45:45  
Lanse,

I would have your extension agent come over. You need to be sure of the problem before you take any action.



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Dave from MN

11-28-2007 19:16:35




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 Re: OT chickens in reply to Lanse, 11-28-2007 18:45:45  
Disease can come from anything. You asked and were giving advise. Get rid of your flock, clean out all manure, pressure wash the entire holding area, and disinfect it. Not just by "spashing bleach", but by getting it clean, dry, and follow up with a power washing or mopping a mixture of 1oz 904, synergize, or another disinfectant for poultry houses, to each gallon of water. Just follow all the safety and mixing recommendations. In a world with bird diseases of influenza and cholera and such, you need to cull ANY sick birds and dispose of them, clean and disinfect, and start fresh. If you wont follow the advise of this, stay the heck out of the chicken business and stop asking for advise unless you are gonna take it to heart. You are not doing what is best for the birds if you are not culling them. Biosecurity Tips: 6 Ways To Prevent Poultry Disease
1. Keep Your Distance.

Restrict access to your property and your birds. Consider fencing off the area where your birds are to form a barrier between “clean” and “dirty” areas. The clean area is the immediate area surrounding your birds, and the dirty or buffer area must be considered to be infected with germs, even if the birds appear healthy and disease free.

Allow only people who take care of your birds to come into contact with them. Your caretakers should not attend bird shows or other events where birds are present. If visitors to your property want to see your birds, be sure they wash up first and clean their shoes. Better yet, keep clean boots for visitors to wear. If your visitors have birds of their own, do not let them near your birds at all.

Game birds and migratory waterfowl should not have contact with your flock because they can carry germs and diseases. If your birds are outdoors, try to keep them in a screened area.

2. Keep It Clean.

You wouldn’t think of tracking dirt and disease into your house, where it could infect your family. Don’t do that to your birds either! Germs can be picked up on shoes and clothing and moved from one area to another. To keep your birds “germ-free,” keep a pair of shoes and a set of clothes to wear only around your birds. Many people keep these clean clothes in a covered pail at the entrance to their bird area. Or, clean and disinfect your shoes and launder your clothes before you check on or work with your birds.

Scrubbing your shoes with a long-handled scrub brush and disinfectant (see section below on disinfectants) will remove droppings, mud, or debris. Clothes should be washed in a washing machine with laundry detergent.

Wash your hands thoroughly with soap, water, and a disinfectant before entering your bird area.

Keep cages, food, and water clean on a daily basis. Clean and disinfect equipment that comes in contact with your birds or their droppings. That includes tools such as feed scoops, shovels, rakes, and brooms. All manure must be removed before disinfectant can work, so clean surfaces with soap and water first. Properly dispose of dead birds by burial or incineration or take them to a landfill. Check on local ordinances for acceptable disposal methods.

3. Don’t Haul Disease Home.


Car and truck tires, poultry cages, and equipment can all harbor “germs.” If you travel to a location where other birds are present, or even to the feed store, be sure to clean and disinfect these items before you return to your property.

Taking some of your birds to a fair or exhibition? Keep those birds separated from the rest of your flock and watch them for at least 2 weeks after the event to ensure that they didn’t pick up a disease.

New birds should be kept separate from your flock for at least 30 days before putting them with the rest of your birds. To prevent disease, it is best not to mix young and old birds or birds from different species or different sources.

4. Don’t Borrow Disease From Your Neighbor.


Do not share birds, lawn and garden equipment, tools, or poultry supplies with your neighbors or other bird owners. If you do bring these items home, clean and disinfect them before they reach your property. And remember to clean and disinfect borrowed items before returning them. Never share items such as wooden pallets or cardboard egg cartons because they are porous and cannot be adequately cleaned and disinfected.

5. Know the Warning Signs of Infectious Bird Diseases.


Many bird diseases can be difficult to diagnose. The list below includes some of the things to look for that signal something might be wrong with your birds. Early detection of signs is very important to prevent the spread of disease.

Sudden death Diarrhea Decreased or complete loss of egg production; soft-shelled, misshapen eggs Sneezing, gasping for air, nasal discharge, coughing Lack of energy and appetite Swelling of tissues around eyes and in neck Purple discoloration of the wattles, combs, and legs Depression, muscular tremors, drooping wings, twisting of head and neck, incoordination, complete paralysis 6. Report Sick Birds.


Do not wait to report unusual signs of disease or unexpected deaths among your birds. Call your agricultural extension agent, local veterinarian, the State Veterinarian, or U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) Veterinary Services office. USDA operates a toll-free hotline (1–866–536–7593) with veterinarians to help you. USDA wants to test sick birds to make sure they do not have a serious poultry disease. There is no charge for USDA veterinarians to work with you to conduct a disease investigation. Early reporting is important to protecting the health of your birds!

Disinfectants

Cleaning and disinfecting is one of the most important steps you can take in practicing backyard biosecurity. Below are some examples of disinfectants available on the market. Follow the directions on the label carefully for the best results.

Thoroughly clean and scrub objects before applying disinfectants. Disinfectants cannot work on top of caked-on dirt and manure, so thoroughly wash surfaces before disinfecting.

Apply disinfectants using brushes, sponges and spray units. Allow adequate contact time (follow manufacturer’s instructions.)

Dispose of used disinfectant according to local regulations.

Examples of Disinfectants

Roccal ®: Mix _ fluid oz of Roccal per gallon of water. Nolvasan® (chlorhexidine diacetate 2 percent): Mix 3 fluid oz of Nolvasan per gallon of water. Household bleach (sodium hypochlorite 6 percent): Mix _ cup of household bleach per gallon of water. Lysol ® spray for footwear Purell® hand pump for hand disinfection Note: Trade names mentioned here do not constitute an endorsement, guarantee, or warranty of these products. USDA bears no responsibility resulting from the use of the described products. These procedures are not guaranteed to prevent highly contagious diseases from affecting your birds; however, they will reduce the risks.

Why Be Concerned?

An outbreak of a bird disease such as exotic Newcastle disease or highly pathogenic avian influenza could not only harm or kill your birds, it could spread quickly and kill other nearby birds.

Early detection and reporting is the most important step in eradicating a disease outbreak. Don’t be afraid of “crying wolf.” State and Federal veterinarians want to hear about sick and dying birds.

There is no charge for USDA veterinarians to work with you to conduct a disease investigation. Call 1-866-536-7593.

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TomH in PA

11-28-2007 18:37:27




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 Re: OT chickens in reply to Lanse, 11-28-2007 16:09:39  
If you want eggs in the winter you need to keep a light in their coop. Doesn't have to be very bright but they need either natural or artificial light for at least 12-14 hours per day or they all stop laying.

And give them plenty of ventilation. Cold won't bother them a bit; moisture will kill them very quickly.



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HuskerMedic

11-28-2007 18:36:07




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 Re: OT chickens in reply to Lanse, 11-28-2007 16:09:39  
Don't claim to be an expert on chickens, but have family that have raised them for as long as I can remember.

They let the chickens roam free during the day. At night, they close them up in a coop. They pick eggs in the morning and at night. Rarely do the chickens lay outside of the coop. The coop is very roomy with plenty of boxes and no crowding.

They never have had a problem with disease. The farm yard is always bug free, too.

I don't think I ate a store-bought egg until I was in my twenties and had moved 80 miles from home.

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smigelski

11-28-2007 18:24:08




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 Re: OT chickens in reply to Lanse, 11-28-2007 16:09:39  
I order a new batch of chicks each spring. As soon as they are big enough to run free, they do. I have some old wood laying boxes, but they still lay eggs behind a tractor or somewhere else. I order straight run, at 12 weeks I send the roosters to auction and keep the best hens to lay. I learned it was easier to get more eggs then I could sell, so I cut back my hens. They are free range never get sick and cost nearly nothing to maintain.

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Vito

11-28-2007 17:26:20




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 Re: OT chickens in reply to Lanse, 11-28-2007 16:09:39  
Lanse,
I don't know alot about chickens but I have seen plenty on my friends farm.Dave is correct about the course of action needed.I would remove all boxes and do free range in your barn.Keep all the areas around the water feeders dry (remove muck)and also the floor.Just keep adding sawdust.If you are doing layers think about organic.Alot more money for the eggs.Broilers are a nasty business.That what my friend does.He contract grows them( rents out his barns by the square foot).Chickens are ugly when they get hungry.
LOL
Vito

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J.C.in AZ.

11-28-2007 17:22:17




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 Re: OT chickens in reply to Lanse, 11-28-2007 16:09:39  
Chickens will thrive in Clean,Dry, non Drafty Environments. Temperature above freezing is ideal. In summer outside Lots work well but must be clean. Litter creates Heat which along with cool temperatures will cause condensation and ultimately a high humidity area. You do not want this.Ammonia from deep Litter is another hazard.Your chickens would do better in the open outdoors than in a cramped Coop with any of the above mentioned nasty environments.They are a living creature with lungs which are subceptable to many respiratory illness's.

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Stephen in SOKY

11-28-2007 17:14:31




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 Re: OT chickens in reply to Lanse, 11-28-2007 16:09:39  
Please at least consider a complete dispersal before bringing any new chicks in. I've seen diseaese perpetuate for far too long by unwillingness to completely get rid of existing animals. Even 1 left will transfer whatever your birds have to any birds you bring in. Even getting rid of all existing birds you've got some major cleaning to do before bringing more birds in. Painting over won't kill many diseases. Best of luck, chooks are great!

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An Observation

11-28-2007 16:54:14




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 Re: OT chickens in reply to Lanse, 11-28-2007 16:09:39  
You claimed to hate factory farms and how they treat animals, yet you have a flock of sick birds that you don't know how to take care of and are sick and dying.



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An Observation

11-28-2007 16:57:31




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 Re: OT chickens in reply to An Observation, 11-28-2007 16:54:14  
Sorry after reading that it sounds really rude. My point is that you shouldn't criticize something until you have a lot of experience on at. I know your young so have fun, good luck, and get help.



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Dave from MN

11-28-2007 16:35:08




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 Re: OT chickens in reply to Lanse, 11-28-2007 16:09:39  
I have never heard a chicken cough, but I have very healthy birds. As you stated, IF you are gonna getrid of them, just do it. If they are sick, cull them now and burn them or bury them. Clean out the pens with a pressure washer , then you want to disinfect it with something. Once you clean it get it all dried out good, wet conditions will just allow disease to survive. Before you destroy everything, take what you , evaluate it compared to what you desire and try to modify what you have to work. If you are in the hole already, why start out with a bigger hole to dig out of. If your after meat birds, buy meat grower chick, like cornish rock broilers or similar, if you are after eggs, get a breed that has egg laying efficiency and longevity. I always liked rhode island reds for eggs.

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