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Tractor Talk Discussion Forum

1949 Farmall Cub - won't stay running

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dave in york ha

10-09-2006 05:10:06




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Hello. 3 months ago, I replaced the spark plugs and my Farmall Cub was not running at 'full power'. My thinking at that time (and maybe now) is that the spark plugs are not properly gapped... but the tractor ran and was able to cut grass for about an hour. My father-in-law, the original owner, said that cutting out after an hour and loss of power is most likely requiring a new consensor and points. When I took off the distributor, it was badly corroded, so I ordered a new distributor cap AND new spark plug wiring kit from you folks and installed that. I finally figured out how to replace the points and condensor (from new recently ordered parts). This was the first time I replaced this many parts on anything mechanical, and while I was trying to be as careful as I can, hand cranking it will get it to turn over, but the most I can get out of it is some sputtering around and then it quits on me. I can't get her running like she used to do for me, and I have a LOT of very high field grass to cut. Any suggestions on how to troubleshoot this ? The gas in the tank is about 1-2 months old...should I add some dry gas to it as well? This is an unleaded gas engine.
Also, for anyone out there reading this message, is there anyone living in or around the York / Harrisburg / Lancaster PA area that might be interested in coming out to fix my ailing tractor for me that knows about these malodies? I'm willing to pay for your expertise if we can come to an arrangement....please call dave at 717-541-7176 if you are in the area and know how to fix these antique tractors. It shouldn't need any other parts except a new battery...I'm getting tired of hand cranking it...which is usually NOT a problem.

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dave in york haven pa

10-10-2006 05:13:44




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 Re: 1949 Farmall Cub - won't stay running in reply to dave in york haven pa, 10-09-2006 05:10:06  
the ongoing saga...I still have a field of TALL grass to cut. I figured out how to set the points...WHAT A DIFFERENCE!!!! No wonder it wasn't running. The new points were up against the adjustment plate the whole time! Now I have two more problems...I have a gear shift lever that came loose, which has the tractor stuck in reverse, AND the tractor is running smoothly, but hot, and it only stays running if its at a full choke, which isn't really useful. The father-in-law says it's burning too lean, and there is an adjustment screw that needs to be played with on the back side of the carb so that it'll run with no choke=more power? Does this make sense? Also, a guy that tinkers with non-tractor engines thought that the engine could be running hotter than normal if it is running too lean=too much choke. Is this correct too? Any suggestions/ constructive feedback is most helpful. Also, any suggestions on how to get the tractor out of reverse? I've already removed the gearbox cover plate, but can't provide leverage to knock the right side out of reverse. (1949 Cub)
I can't start it now or tune it while it's in gear...a major catch 22!!!!

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RN

10-09-2006 11:23:19




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 Re: 1949 Farmall Cub - won't stay running in reply to dave in york haven pa, 10-09-2006 05:10:06  
Go to library and read basic operator manual or find a Haynes or Chilton manual with pictures- back to basics on plug gap, points setting, wires, cap and rotor. Plugs may be wide gap- .025 to .030 is good gap to start for older ignitions, check manual. Many plugs now come from factory gapped for high energy/lean burn engines at .045/.055 inch or greater gap, hard starting old engines. Point gap needs to be about .015 to start, IHC was .013 for magneto, .018 for distributor, a too small gap here is a hard starter also, try a .020 wire between points with points rubbing contact on high part of cam, tighten base and turn over by crank and watch if points spark just before each high point- shaft bearing may have a bit of slop or a cam lob may be a bit worn. Since you said it was running before you worked on the ignition, suspect what you worked on first. Again- learn basics first. You seem to indicate you are not familiar with old Kettering ignition system. RN

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RAB

10-09-2006 09:36:46




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 Re: 1949 Farmall Cub - won't stay running in reply to dave in york haven pa, 10-09-2006 05:10:06  
It is not too late to do what you should have done in the first place.
Check to see which system is at fault- fuel or ignition.
Check for spark quality (blue and strong) and for fuel flow from carb drain (full flow and continuous for a minute or more).
You may now have more than one problem!
Could also, but not likely, be a blocked tank vent or valve clearances as well as the other options.
RAB

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Bigdog

10-09-2006 08:25:14




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 Re: 1949 Farmall Cub - won't stay running in reply to dave in york haven pa, 10-09-2006 05:10:06  
You need to make sure that you got the plug wires back on in the proper order. If you are comfortable that the points and condensor are properly installed and gapped the most likely problem is having the plug wires out of sequence on the new cap. The firing order is 1,3,4,2 and the number 1 tower should be marked on the cap. Just put the #1 plug (front) on the #1 tower, then #3, #4 & #2 in that order clockwise around the cap.

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dave in york haven

10-09-2006 10:03:46




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 Re: 1949 Farmall Cub - won't stay running in reply to Bigdog, 10-09-2006 08:25:14  
As far as checking the points, what do I check? The points sit inside. The gear running from the tiny central shaft gear was NOT replaced. It seems like that mechanism, if it did not get replaced, should still be .20 from the distributor cap? How do you determine the if the gapping is actually correct? I'm going to the local hardware store tonight to get the gap checking hardware for the sparks and the points/condensor. Is there details/pictures on how to properly do this somewhere? Thanks!
Dave

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Animal

10-09-2006 05:44:06




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 Re: 1949 Farmall Cub - won't stay running in reply to dave in york haven pa, 10-09-2006 05:10:06  
Dave I would say your battery or charging system is your problem, you are probably running out of juice for it to run on. Charge your battery good, start the tractor, run it at a fairly high r.p. m. and remove a cable if it dies,your charging system has problems.



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