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Tractor Talk Discussion Forum

Loader counterweight

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Rob in Ore

09-18-2006 13:31:34




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I'm thinking of using a 55 gallon drum filled with cement as a weight on the back of an IH240. I would only use this when the loader is mounted. Is this a good idea?




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Billy NY

09-19-2006 09:30:57




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 Re: Loader counterweight in reply to Rob in Ore, 09-18-2006 13:31:34  
I'm not familiar with the 240, must one up the line from the 140 ? Utility size.

I run my 850 ford with a cast iron counter weight, that appears to have been manufactured for this purpose. It's got a multi-hole drawbar attached to it, and is what the lift arms attach to. It's thick at the end closest to the tractor and thinner at the back, sloped with a gentle radius, on the bottom side, and being cast it is real heavy, must be over 1000 lbs. The tires are loaded too.

I noticed that even with the tires loaded, the tractor was useless in the snow, unless it had chains, but when I put that weight on, it gets good traction in the snow, if there is ice under it, you still need chains, but I was suprised at the difference in performance.

The thing I like about this counterweight is that it's compact but heavy, and I can keep it below the rear axle, lower the better, probably stabilizes and applies the weight better. It's also set up so that the strain on the hydraulics is relieved, it has an old backhoe frame for a sherman hoe or similar, so I can rest a steel bar across and take the weight. I would imagine you can buy something fabricated of steel that connects to the 3pt. to do the same, I have thought I've seen something like that before.

A lot of people use the conrcrete in the barrel, I just like the smaller compact weight that came from our old ford dealership, I've never seen another one, sure glad I found it in the weeds and have it to use now, in deep snow and muck it seems to get me through, tires are new also, but you have to be careful about slipping/spinning them with the weight on if you have rocks in the soil or muck. Frozen grounda that has thawed a bit seems to slice the tires easily if you spin them, have to be careful about that.

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old

09-18-2006 15:13:52




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 Re: Loader counterweight in reply to Rob in Ore, 09-18-2006 13:31:34  
I've tried the 55 gallion drum and cement and found my back blade works better. I now use the back blade and have 6 suit case weights on the blade and at time wish I had more weights. If I where you I would go that way instead of a barrel. Plus the nice thing is you still have an implament on back that you can use at the same time and most of the time its nice to have a blade when doing loader work.

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Russ from MN

09-18-2006 14:39:32




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 Re: Loader counterweight in reply to Rob in Ore, 09-18-2006 13:31:34  
I built one for our JD 4600 out of half a 55 gal. plastic barrel. I welded up a cat. 1 three point framework within the barrel with a hitch coming out the back, comes in handy. I put a lot of scrap iron in it to make it heavier before filling it with concrete. One word of caution, put your top link bracket far enough fore ward so the top link is not damaged when you lift it all the way up!



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Hugh MacKay

09-18-2006 14:13:52




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 Re: Loader counterweight in reply to Rob in Ore, 09-18-2006 13:31:34  
Rob: I had one of these for my 560 and 656 Farmalls. 656 was 3 point and on 560 I used a 2 to 3 point adapter. Before I filled the barrel with concrete I cut three holes, two just the right height for lower links to pick it off the ground. I then put a 3 point cross bar through those holes and through barrel. I then put another hole for a fabricated top link attachment with rebar for concrete cling to. I filled the barrel with concrete keeping my metal parts in place. I put some rebar through the cross bar holes within the barrel. This gave me a 3 point counter weight. It was plenty heavy for those tractors. If I were doing this for a 240, I'd leave the concrete down about 16" from top. Makes a great box for tools, chains, chain saws, etc.

Beauty of the 3 point is you can put it on and off quick, plus you can let the weight off tires and hydraulics when tractor is parked.

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jmixigo

09-18-2006 14:08:56




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 Re: Loader counterweight in reply to Rob in Ore, 09-18-2006 13:31:34  
I've a Ford 3930 with a FEL. Although I 've got a counter weight (27"X27"X24" cast iron block with 3 point mounts) I usually just do with whatever is on the 3 point hitch. The tractor just "feels better" with the Rhino 6' brush cutter than with the counter weight.



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ChrisLSD

09-18-2006 13:49:46




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 Re: Loader counterweight in reply to Rob in Ore, 09-18-2006 13:31:34  
Do u have a box blade or something like that?

Just remember the further back you hang the weight the less weight you need for a balance - just like see saw



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in-too-deep

09-18-2006 15:34:59




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 Re: Loader counterweight in reply to ChrisLSD, 09-18-2006 13:49:46  
I agree. You might be surprised at how heavy some implements are. Even if they aren't heavier than a drum of concrete, you gain ballast by the weight being farther away from the rear axle. Good luck.



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John S-B

09-18-2006 13:46:21




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 Re: Loader counterweight in reply to Rob in Ore, 09-18-2006 13:31:34  
How about one filled with water? That way it would be easier to deal with when you are not using it since you can empty it. You won't have quite as much weight, but you could get about 425# of water in it.



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