O/T Electric wiring question

A ground should never be used for a neutral.

A ground never caries current unless their is a problem in which case it grounds the current tripping the breaker.

A neutral carries current every time the plug is used. That is why they have a coating on a neutral wire and not a ground.

How can people be so cheap to go 90% of the way on a job but render it a dangerous mess by taking a shortcut. Using the ground as a return also raises the voltage of everything bonded to it above true ground potential. 5 volts is common and 10 volts is no great suprise. Hooved animals standing on true earth with their snouts in a water or feed manger can feel less than one volt and become stressed. Mastitious, poor feed conversion, restlessness etc. At much over two volts some animals will dehydrate rather than drink. I've been through a few systems after the vet couldn't find biological reasons and he suspected tingle voltage. Scarey actually and dangerous to work on or test too. The well pump sitting upon a wooden block on the wet floor and fed from a 2 wire cheater turned into a light socket was a favorite. The outside casing was 120V to true earth. No or useless ground rods, ground/neutrals bonded in pony panel, ground wires torn off, ground wires just wrapped around rather than securly clamped/bonded. Farmer Fixes wiring where the ground was used as a current carrying conductor in a 14/2 when a 14/3 should have been used. And the all tme favourite in dairy operations. A 240V cooling fan motor, pump motor etc has failed and was replaced with a 120V model. No neutral so they tie one lead to chassis. Zap, well duh. And I keep hearing the same words. "But it works". Just because it works doesn't make it right. I could wire the stable lights and receptacles with barbed wire and fence insulators and that would work too.