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O/T Electric wireing

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37 chief

03-29-2006 08:49:40




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I have a 220 v line to my welder, with hot lines and a ground. I want to install a 110 plug in the same area. I have a hot line which is my 110 v where do I pick up the nuteral line? Thanks, Stan




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37 chief

03-29-2006 11:00:14




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 Re: O/T Electric wireing in reply to 37 chief, 03-29-2006 08:49:40  
Thanks for the info. Stan



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John T

03-29-2006 10:45:26




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 Re: O/T Electric wireing in reply to 37 chief, 03-29-2006 08:49:40  
Chief, its NOT safe or NEC Code permissible to use that 240 volt 3 conductor (L1, L2, Equipment Ground) circuit to feed a 120 volt circuit, even though it would indeed measure 120 from either hot leg to that safety bare/green equipment grounding conductor. Like the other gents told ya, you need to run a hot and a Neutral (a white grounded conductor) plus a safety equipment ground (green/bare grounding conductor) to serve a 120 volt 1 phase 3 wire circuit.

To have either 120 or 240 volt NEC code proper circuits, you need to run 4 wires: 2 hots, Neutral (white grounded conductor), Equipment Ground (green/bare grounding conductor)

ALSO in the event you want to set up a sub panel in a garage fed from say the main panel in the house, you need to run the 4 wires PLUS at the sub panel the Neutral Buss and the Ground Buss MUST BE SEPERATE AND ISOLATED unlike at the main service where they are bonded together and also bonded to a grounding electrode (such as a made ground like a driven ground rod).

The safety equipment ground (grounding conductor) is used ONLY to provide a low impedance circuit path for fault current back to the main panel to clear the fault by tripping a breaker. The Neutral (grounded conductor) is used to carry the normal return current to operate the load.

John T Nordhoff, retired EE in Indiana

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VADAVE

03-29-2006 11:30:17




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 O/T Electric wireing in reply to John T, 03-29-2006 10:45:26  
John four wires get you 3 phase, most houses let alone farms only get 1 phase. What in is 3 wires, 2 "hot" legs and a neutral. Also if you will look in the box in your house you will find that the white neutral and the green ground a connected--in my mind that makes them ONE wire.
Now in my pump house there are three wires--2 "hot" wires and 1 neutral/ground--to run a 1 phase 220 pump. I picked up one "hot" leg and the neutral to power the only light in the building. No worries.

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John T

03-29-2006 14:26:04




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 Re: O/T Electric wireing in reply to VADAVE, 03-29-2006 11:30:17  
Dave, that wiring method is as old as my mother in law and hasnt been NEC code legal for yearsssss sssss s. The proper NEC and state of the art and trade name/reference for modern house wiring is 120/240 Volt, Single Phase, 3 wire. It is an earth grounded system NOT a floating service. At the service transformer the Neutral is earth grounded (also grounded on high voltage primary side if a Y service) then again at the service entrance. ONLY at the main service entrance are the Neutral and Ground Busses bonded together (NOT at sub panels) and the Neutral is bonded to a grounding electrode which leads to the earth ground reference like a made ground such as a driven ground rod.

Nowwwww 3 phase can be either Wye (which is usually earth grounded) or Delta (which is usually floated although I have corner grounded them).

A 3 Phase 4 Wire Wye circuit carries 3 hots, a Neutral, and an equipment ground. At the service entrance the Neutral and Ground busses are bonded, same as in the 1 Phase 3 Wire home system. Typical of voltages are 208 Y 120 or 480 Y 277.

A 3 Phase 3 Wire floating Delta circuit carries 3 hots and an equipment ground (has no Neutral). Typical of voltages are 240 or 480. There can also be a hot or high leg 120/240 volt 3 phase 4 wire Delta configuration in which one transformer has a center Neutral which is earth grounded and off that transformer one gets 120 volt single phase (2 legs) or 240 volt single phase.

Hope this helps yall

John T (retired electrical engineer who designed secondary power distribution systems)

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Red Dave

03-29-2006 12:18:19




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 Re: O/T Electric wireing in reply to VADAVE, 03-29-2006 11:30:17  
Your way was legal per code 30 years ago. That was then, this is now and it no longer meets code.

The only way to run a legal, code compliant 220/110 circuit today is with 4 wires. No electrician worth his liabiity insurance will do it any other way.



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John T

03-29-2006 14:28:13




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 Re: O/T Electric wireing in reply to Red Dave, 03-29-2006 12:18:19  
Good point with which I agree. Actually its probably been more then 30 years ago lol and NO ELECTRICIAN would run a NON NEC approved circuit nowadays or risk injury plus get his *** sued off lol

John T



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VADAVE

03-29-2006 15:26:26




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 Re: O/T Electric wireing in reply to John T, 03-29-2006 14:28:13  
Guess it depends on where you live. Cause I agree with everything you said except the part about legality. My power was put in a lot less then 30 years ago and there are not 4 wires on a single phase 220 volt circuit.



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Red Dave

03-30-2006 09:08:18




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 Re: O/T Electric wireing in reply to VADAVE, 03-29-2006 15:26:26  
When you add the receptacle on one leg of the 220 to ground, you no longer have a 220 volt circuit. it is now a 220/110 volt circuit. 4 wires with seperate ground and neutral are required by code.



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KEB

03-29-2006 19:51:50




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 Re: O/T Electric wireing in reply to VADAVE, 03-29-2006 15:26:26  
3-wire 120/240 volt wiring (two hots & a neutral) went out when grounded outlets came into being (or maybe the other way round). Anyway, as John says, normal house wiring is single phase, 240 volt, which is center tapped to make two 120 volt legs. I think the change to a separate safety ground conductor happened around 1960 or so. We had a house one time that was built in 1961, and it was originally built with grounded outlets in the kitchen & ungrounded outlets everywhere else.

VADAVE, there are instances where 3-wire 240 volt installations are still appropriate, as long as you don't try to tap 120 volts off of them. Dryers & ranges come to mind, where everything runs on 240 volts, and are wired with two hot legs and a safety ground. An air compressor with a 240 volt motor is another example.

The issue comes in when you try to connect to the center tap, which is actually what is grounded. When two conductor (ungrounded) outlets were commonly used, there was no separate grounding (safety ground) conductor, and the neutral (groundED conductor) and safety ground (groundING conductor) were in fact one and the same. Only two wires (hot & neutral) were run to the individual outlets.

With a three conductor grounded outlet, as currently required, a third wire is provided as a safety ground. This wire is not allowed to carry load current, only fault current, which is why it must be isolated from the neutral except at one point. If it were connected to neutral at any other point, then it would carry part of the load current and would not provide shock protection under certain fault conditions. This is also why the safety ground wire is allowed to be smaller than the current carrying conductors, as it only carries current in a fault condition.

As John pointed out, a four wire installation does not indicate three-phase power, although there are three phase installations that only use 4 wires. These are analogous to the 3 wire single phase installation, i.e., single phase 240 volt is 2 hot wires & safety ground. A delta three phase connection is 3 hot wires and a safety ground. A wye three phase connection is 5 wires, 3 hot plus neutral plus a safety ground. Note that 2 hot wires does not indicate two phases, but indicates only that neither of the wires is a neutral.

Maybe clarify things a little...

Keith

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John T

03-29-2006 18:43:49




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 Re: O/T Electric wireing in reply to VADAVE, 03-29-2006 15:26:26  
Dave, I sure cant argue with that, where one lives and the local inspectors determines the practices in that area.

We may just be having trouble communicating also. YOURE ABSOLUTELY RIGHT that your home "service" panel only has 3 wires ran to it from the transformer, being 2 hots and one Neutral often configured as whats called twisted Triplex Cable of the 2 insulated hots wound around the bare center Neutral. Its called 120/240 volt Single Phase 3 Wire "Service". At the service entrance YOURE ABSOLUTELY RIGHT the Neutral Buss and the Equipment Ground Buss in the panel are tied together, and at either the meter base or the panel the Neutral is bonded to earth ground via a driven ground rod or metal water pipe etc.

WHERE YOU MAY NOT BE READING ME AND WHATS CONFUSING is that once you leave that main panel with a 120 volt branch circuit, it has 3 wires being 1 Hot, 1 Neutral, 1 Equipment Ground. If you ran a 240 volt branch circuit, it also has 3 wires, 2 hots and 1 Equipment ground.

HOWEVER if you ran a circuit to a sub panel, YOU MUST RUN 4 WIRES BEING 2 hots, 1 Neutral, 1 Equipment Ground. LIKEWISE, if you run a circuit (like to an overhead buss duct) and you need to obtain BOTH 120 volt and 240 volt taps, YOU AGAIN NEED 4 WIRES. You CAN NOT use the equipment ground as the Neutral even though the device would still function. The Neutral (grounded conductor) carries normal circuit return current while the equipment ground (groundign conductor) is intended to carry ONLY FAULT CURRENT.

Thanks for the fun discussion, were making progress it sounds like its just the english language which we are havign trouble with lol

Take care yall

John T

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Richard H.

03-29-2006 20:16:07




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 Re: O/T Electric wireing in reply to John T, 03-29-2006 18:43:49  
Can we talk about Chicago three ways tomorrow? RH



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paul

03-29-2006 09:04:04




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 Re: O/T Electric wireing in reply to 37 chief, 03-29-2006 08:49:40  
The to code answer is run a new line with 4 conductors.

Some will suggest just using the ground wire because 'it goes tot he same place' but the ground wire does a different job than thew nuetral wire, and interchanging them like that makes all metal surfaces on all your electrical devices _hot_ if something should go wrong - a short, etc. Not a good idea.

Turning your ground wire into a nuetral wire by changing the ground busses around is possible, but that leaves you without a ground wire, which isn't to code or real good either.

--->Paul

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VADAVE

03-29-2006 11:35:44




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 Re: O/T Electric wireing in reply to paul, 03-29-2006 09:04:04  
Wait a minute Paul if something goes wrong--like you get a short--then you blow the breaker.
The risk you are trying to talk about is the possiblity that the ground will "float". This means that the case and the ground wire could be at some voltage higher then earth. However it only takes one connection to ground to bring ground to earth. That's why code requires that the ground leg be attached to a rod driven into the ground. And as I said earlier ground and neutral are attached in the breaker box thus neutral is also at earth.

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KEB

03-29-2006 20:14:06




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 Re: O/T Electric wireing in reply to VADAVE, 03-29-2006 11:35:44  
VADAVE: Not all faults blow a breaker. It is entirely possible to have a fault that will supply enough current to give a fatal shock without the breaker ever knowing it ever happened.

An example here would be somebody using a drill under the kitchen sink. A fault between the motor windings and the drill case (assuming its not a double insulated one) would make the case hot with respect to the plumbing, which is connected to earth. You're doing really well to get the resistance of a single ground rod down to less that a few 10's of ohms, so there will be some resistance in the path back from the pipe to the ground rod to the neutral buss in the breaker panel. 120 volts across 20 ohms is 6 amps, well below what will pop a breaker but many time higher than the current necessary for a fatal shock.

A safety ground wire will have a lot less resistance, and would therefore carry the fault current back to the breaker instead of the current flowing through a hazardous path. Without the safety ground wire, the drill would operate normally even though the case is at 120 volts above ground.

Gound fault interrupters in high risk places such as kitchens & bathrooms add another layer of protection against fault conditions that don't blow breakers. A ground fault interruptor monitors the current in the hot & neutral leads, and opens the circuit if there's ever a difference. Any difference in current means that some of the current is flowing in a fault path somewhere instead of returning on the neutral.

Codes are in place for a reason, and even though that reason may not be intuitively obvious, I can gurantee you that the codes are based on well thought out engineering practices.

Keith

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Bob

03-29-2006 09:02:20




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 Re: O/T Electric wireing in reply to 37 chief, 03-29-2006 08:49:40  
Run a new cable from the fuse/breaker box to the 110 outlet.

You need a dedicated neutral, all the way back to the fuse/breaker box, and MUST have the outlet protected by a 15 or 20 amp fuse/breaker.



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