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Tractor Talk Discussion Forum

firing sequence ford 8n, side mount

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mattu

06-23-2004 16:29:54




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Hi yall, well now that I got the started rebuilt its time to figure out the distributor. The tune up specs on this website say 1243. I tried this and all hell broke loose (loud popping noises, my fatherinlaw calls this backfiring but I thought the engine had to be running for it to backfire). Anyway, I also tried 1342. Same result, however the backfiring was less fequent. Anybody got any ideas? I'd hate to ware out my newly rebuilt starter trying to figure this out. Had to borrow the starter money from grandma as it is.

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Nolan

06-24-2004 04:39:37




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 Re: firing sequence ford 8n, side mount in reply to mattu, 06-23-2004 16:29:54  
The firing order is 1243, #1 being at the front of the tractor. Your father-in-law is correct about backfire, and it is most likely what you were hearing with the timing 180 degrees out on the distributor.

Backfire is firing through the carburetor. This happens when the ignition fires on the top of the exhaust stroke, begining of the intake.

Afterfire is firing through the exhaust. Can be caused by the above, as well a fouled plug allowing ignitable mixture into the exhaust system. Frequently called backfire, but that really is the incorrect term.

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Ron

06-23-2004 17:14:50




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 Re: firing sequence ford 8n, side mount in reply to mattu, 06-23-2004 16:29:54  
If the specs say 1243 that's what it it. Are you sure you have the correct distributor rotation? Did you actually look at it? Are you sure you have the distribution correctly rough timed... rotor pointing at #1 on the cap when both valves on #1 are closed (piston at TDC)? Are you sure you have the points set correctly?

Not knowing the history of the engine... "backfiring" is a meaningless term. Is it an intake backfire or exhaust backfire? They have different causes.

Did you fool with the carburetor at all? Have you pulled the plugs to see if they are getting wet with gas? Have you done a compression test? Did you fool with the cam/valve timing? Is the valve lash set correctly?

Engines are pretty simple beasts. All they need is compression, a properly timed valve train, a properly timed spark, and fuel. As far as fuel goes, the righer the better until you can get it to run then you can play with mixture but if you start it too lean you'll be putting pistons in it.

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jake

06-23-2004 17:32:14




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 Re: Re: firing sequence ford 8n, side mount in reply to Ron, 06-23-2004 17:14:50  
If your using the flywheel timing mark you can be 180 degrees out of time. The timing mark passes past the port 2 times before ignition occurs so if out of time the engine wont run. Easy way put finger over #1 plug hole then back up when compression cycle occurs. Also make sure the wires are set for the correct rotation CCW or CW.



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Ron

06-23-2004 17:58:59




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 Re: Re: Re: firing sequence ford 8n, side mount in reply to jake, 06-23-2004 17:32:14  
Good point. That's why I suggested he observe the closed valves for #1. Timing marks/tabs are next to useless.

The finger method in the plug hole works well for two people but I usually stuff a small loose wad of paper towel in the hole and then watch it blow out.



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mattu

06-24-2004 15:29:24




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: firing sequence ford 8n, side moun in reply to Ron, 06-23-2004 17:58:59  
Thanks for the advise about it cap being 180 off, that did the trick. I sounds like it whats to start now. I checked the plugs and they were dry. After trying to start it for a while I noticed a puddle of gas coming from the carb. There a little hole next to the drain bolt and the gas seems to be coming from that hole. Is that a missing screw? Should I take off the carb and clean it?



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Ron

06-24-2004 16:00:37




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: firing sequence ford 8n, side in reply to mattu, 06-24-2004 15:29:24  
I could be more helpful if I knew more history about the engine but here goes.

You can drain the float bowl, make sure you have fresh gas in the tank, make sure the fuel filter is in place, and then try to start it. If not, then have someone else try to start it while you spray carb/choke cleaner directly into the carb throat (keep your face to the side). If the ignition system is right, it should start, if just briefly.

If it won't contunue to run or runs poorly, what's likely happening that there is dirt between the float needle and seat or the float level is seriously misadjusted. That's causing raw gas to dump into the carb body. That hole is suppsosed to be there, it's the body drain.

In that case, you will have to pull the carb apart. If it has not been rebuilt or you are not sure of its status, you might want to get a rebuild kit and go through it. Use B12 Chemtool to clean everything. The kit or service manual should have instructions. While it's not rocket science, if you have never done one then you might want to have someone who has watch over your shoulder. It's especially important to get the float level right.

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