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Siclebar knife section RR (?)

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Indydirtfarmer

03-15-2004 03:32:52

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I spent the biggest part of yesterday pounding rivets in and out of a knifebar for my haybine. Never did like the job. While I was working on it, a nieghbor stopped in, and proceeded to give me his opinion on how to do the job. It occured to me that there are just as many ways to do this job, as there are people that do it. Let's hear YOUR way to replace knives. (I use a Herchel-Adams "press" to remove rivits, after grinding the heads off. Hammer and anvil to "re-rivet" new ones.) John

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RusselAZ

03-15-2004 12:04:39

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Re: Siclebar knife section RR (?) in reply to Indydirtfarmer, 03-15-2004 03:32:52

If you have a big solid vise and the sickle sections stick out behind the main bar, you just close the anvil up loose on the section with the main bar on the jaw. Hit the backside of the sickle section with a big hammer. This will shear the rivets, and walla!! You can clear a sickle bar almost as fast as you swing a hammer.

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Nebraska Cowman

03-15-2004 10:36:39

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Re: Siclebar knife section RR (?) in reply to Indydirtfarmer, 03-15-2004 03:32:52

i just do like some of the guys here mentioned, lay the sickle points down on a suare edge of rr iron and whack away. a little practice and a 2# hammer and the sections will come off one to a blow. I've taken off buckets full this way. WEAR GLOVES

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RusselAZ

03-15-2004 12:05:53

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Re: Re: Siclebar knife section RR (?) in reply to Nebraska Cowman, 03-15-2004 10:36:39

and safety glasses.

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thurlow

03-15-2004 10:15:24

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Re: Siclebar knife section RR (?) in reply to Indydirtfarmer, 03-15-2004 03:32:52

There's a tool called a Johnson Sickle Servicer which will pop old rivets out and "correctly" seat new ones..... only works with knife out of machine. Used one for years before going to all bolt-in sections.....

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paul

03-15-2004 09:55:38

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Re: Siclebar knife section RR (?) in reply to Indydirtfarmer, 03-15-2004 03:32:52

Take the guard off, angle grinder to take the rivet top off, drill partial hole in rivets, punch out. Use axle stub as bottom anvil & hammer new rivet.

However, I started using bolts on any new sections I put in.

For a worn out sickle, I find it's cheaper to buy an aftermarket whole new one than replacing all the sections.

--->Paul

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Craig M in NC

03-15-2004 07:52:15

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Re: Siclebar knife section RR (?) in reply to Indydirtfarmer, 03-15-2004 03:32:52

Dad worked at the JD dealer for a long time and if in the field he would find a solid straight edge he could lay the metal bar of the sickle on and then take a hammer and hit the back of the knife section. This would shear off the rivets and then you had to punch out the remaining piece. If you do them this way you do run the risk of bending the metal bar that the sections attach to but I have seen him do it and done it myself. I now run all bolt on sections because they are so much easier to replace if you happen to break one. As far as replacing the rivets he always said that the important thing was to hit straight down on the rivet to swell it along its entire lenght and fill up the hole. If you did this then the sections stay tight and rivets last longer. Hope this helps.

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kyhayman

03-15-2004 18:16:44

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Re: Re: Siclebar knife section RR (?) in reply to Craig M in NC, 03-15-2004 07:52:15

That's exactly the way my dad taught me to do it, and now we have bolt in sections in the haybine that we dont use much, disc mower is just too much easier.

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Buzzman72

03-15-2004 06:59:50

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Re: Siclebar knife section RR (?) in reply to Indydirtfarmer, 03-15-2004 03:32:52

When I was a kid back in the '60's working at the Farmall garage with Dad and Grand-Dad, I replaced a lot of sections in sickle bar mower knives. Usually, I'd use the hand-held grinder to grind off the rivet heads; then remove the remainder of the rivet with a punch. To install the new sections, Dad had a cast-iron block that was machined the correct distance between then rivets; I'd set up the rivets with the heads on the block, thru the section and the knife; then Dad had a special rectangular-shaft punch to put the correct "finish" on the rivets. Not for sure, but I kinda think IH sold the punch and the block as a kit at one time.

When Grand-Dad did it, we always said he "cheated"; he had a rivet press that was set up in the bench vise; when the rivets, section and knife were positioned, one pull of the lever "finished" the rivets on one section. Not sure who made the press, but it sure was handy!

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Sid

03-15-2004 05:01:46

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Re: Siclebar knife section RR (?) in reply to Indydirtfarmer, 03-15-2004 03:32:52

I have an old piece of rail road track lay on it side then put sickle on the bottom part of track so the "backbone" is on the edge, sections pointing down, smack it with a hammer and it shears the rivets, punch rivet out, put in new sections. I usually use section bolts, they work good for me. I think the little extra cosis offset by the time saved. I have also used a sickle tool to punch out the rivets without having to grind off the heads nad replace broken sections in machine.

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DAVE M

03-15-2004 03:41:45

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Re: Siclebar knife section RR (?) in reply to Indydirtfarmer, 03-15-2004 03:32:52

If your haybine is a new holland or john deere
replace the rivets with bolt on sections.
We have a jd 820 with bolt on sections and would not have it any other way. I even converted
our nh 451 mower to bolt on. for about $50.00.

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Indydirtfarmer

03-15-2004 04:37:49

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Re: Re: Siclebar knife section RR (?) in reply to DAVE M, 03-15-2004 03:41:45

I have a New Holland, and a Massey Ferguson haybine. (Trying to equip 2 farms) I was working on the Massey yesterday. It seems to have a problem with bolt-on sections. It keeps shedding them. I've gone back to rivets on it. Most likely, I'm going to go with a disc mower this summer. Easier to haul. Faster. Less trouble. I do some repair work for a couple nieghbors too. (Old guys that want things done the way they did it back in the day..... .) They still want rivets. I do a couple siclebar mowers a summer for them. John

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dad

03-15-2004 05:38:35

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Re: Re: Re: Siclebar knife section RR (?) in reply to Indydirtfarmer, 03-15-2004 04:37:49

I still use rivets on my #38 JD mower, and bean head on the 95. Bolts on the 1209.
I use a riveting tool I got from John Deere to put on new sections. I still grind off the heads to punch out the old rivet.
Disc-bines are the thing for today hay-making, speed. My bother came and helped me one day.
I had the 1209, he had a new New-Holland disc-bine. I'm in 4th gear, my bother is darn near in road gear. I cut 10 acres, he cut 60 in the same amount of time. You guys know what a "pocket gopher" is? if not I send you some. Nothing harder on a siclebar then running into a pocket gopher dump.(disc-bine goes right though them)
dad

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Delbert

03-15-2004 08:31:46

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Re: Re: Re: Re: Siclebar knife section RR (?) in reply to dad, 03-15-2004 05:38:35

Gopher thats who you send to get a new section or a sharp sickle when you hit that little pile of dirt in the hay field isn,t it? Or if it is wet sends you off the tractor to clean out the guards.I use bolts to change sections on my IH 990 mower conditioner and also my j d no.5 mower works good.

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Drill

03-15-2004 07:31:50

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Re: Re: Re: Re: Siclebar knife section RR (?) in reply to dad, 03-15-2004 05:38:35

I've used bolt on sections on my NH haybines and Versitile swather for years without any problems. Just make sure they are tightened to specs. I find they are alot easier to change in the field than rivets.

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BFarr

03-15-2004 09:10:28

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Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Siclebar knife section RR (?) in reply to Drill, 03-15-2004 07:31:50

Yes,
So many ways In the shop, I just open the vise wide enough so the section goes through, beat on the bar and shear the rivets. Then, place on anvil and peen on new rivets

Someday, bolts will replace the rivets on the NH488

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