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I can't comment technically, but living in Southern MN and driving semi cross country for 14 years including 5 providences in Canada, I can relate to what has worked for me. I usually draw the line at around 10* or so for straight #2 fuel. Although I have started a rig that sat for 5 days on straight #2 @ -10 without a problem (although that rig had a filter/water seperater/heater, the fuel was already somewhat heated between the filter and the tank). Personally with a 70/30 I would draw the line at around -10. I have never gone further than a 50/50 and have used my tractor @ temps reaching -30 or lower. I put side engine shields on it to contain engine heat for the sake of the filters. Anti-gel additives can be used, but read the instructions, most state that for full effectiveness, they must be added to fuel of 40*. Unless you use something like Power Service Emergency (think that's the name). But I wouldn't recommend that for full time use. I have found in the past (other truckers I've assisted with gelling/freeze up)that quality of fuel is first and foremost. When on the road in the winter I only fueled at high volume truck stops, not looking for the cheapest price. My experiences has shown the the majority, not all but most, in these cases were froze up, not gelled up. It only takes about a 1/4 cup of water or less to shut a semi down in sub zero temps. The water will collect at the lowest part of the tank and that is where the draw line generally is also. A small chip of ice plugs the line and it's like a ball valve shut off. It happened to me once, tank was clear as could be, and there at the bottom was a very small piece of ice plugging the outlet. A butane torch on the elbow for about 3 minutes and I was rolling again. I'm not sure of the recent advances in fuel technology, but #2 fuel has a higher concentration of parafin waxes than #1 fuel. That wax in sub zero temps is what plugs the filter, not necessarily the fuel gelling in the tank. Most times when "gelling" occurs a filter replacement is all that is required to get back on the road. Depending on whether you are talking about a semi, tractor, or pickup, the temps at which to be concerned will be different. The size of the fuel line is the next smallest opening your fuel will have to pass through besides the filter. Is your filter very, somewhat exposed to the elements??? Or tucked in tight to the motor. A fuel that is in "infant" stages of gelling can still be pulled by the pump, that reaching a cold or warm filter will determine whether or not it stays running. On refrigerated semi trailers, the fuel has to be "sucked" all the way up to the motor with only a 3/8" line. Winter use of those is recommended for straight #1 fuel. But with that being said, I'm not sure, but todays PU's might be only running a line of similar or smaller size. The biggest draw back of using #1 straight WAS the reduced lubricity properties of the fuel. With today's low sulpher my opinion today is #2 and old #1 might be somewhat comparable in that aspect. My recommendation would be to change to a set of fresh filters at the minimum at the start of cold weather, if you are pulling from a bulk barrel at home, water contamination would be minimal as it already is ice in the bulk tank, unless it's underground. A pickup would greatly benefit by a winter front to minimize the drop of engine compartment heat loss, a tractor will greatly benefit by restricting radiator air flow and side skirt of some sort to contain engine heat for the filters. Big rig, the only way I run mine now, is a hot water loop through the fuel tank plumbed into the water jacket of the engine, used to be called an Artic Fox, but am sure there are other brands now. As long as you can get it started, run straight #2 in almost any temps with no problems. Hope this helps and am sure you will get other tips. Bruce
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