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MF 65 pulling

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jb4020

11-11-2007 09:28:38




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I have an mf 65 that i bought several months ago and would like to know if it would be any good at pulling. It has the continental g176 with multi-power trans and 38" wheels. It seems most people say these tractors are not good pullers but it seems to have good hp for its weight (40-45 and 4500lbs.) If i added weight to the rear would it be a half decent puller? Is there much i can do to add power cheaply? Any help is appreciated?

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jb4020

11-11-2007 19:26:28




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 Re: MF 65 pulling in reply to jb4020, 11-11-2007 09:28:38  
Thanks for the replys and glad to hear it will pull good. I dont plan on doing much to the engine but i want to build weight brackets. I hope i can pull in the older pulls.



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massey

11-11-2007 19:21:05




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 Re: MF 65 pulling in reply to jb4020, 11-11-2007 09:28:38  
4020- good&bad news. Good news is it will pull, and if everyone is stock, you can stick with any of them. Front end is light (good), row crops come with 38" tires (again good), the continental engines put out more hp than other engines their size (good), and your competators will have to do engine work just to match hp of your stock engine. Now the rest. There are dry sleeve and wet sleeve engines, with wet being more desirable for long life ag purposes. But for pulling, if someone is going to "expand the rules" all they have to do to dry sleeve is pull sleeves and bore the heck out of block, put in larger sleeves, or in some cases no sleeve and larger pistons and bingo, there is no replacement for displacement. Massey uses wet sleeve so you are limited to the size of sleeve you already have unless you really want to spend $$$. Don't. So, boreing is out. You can stroke, but again not your best option. My suggestion: make sure engine is in good shape, rings/bearings/timing etc. If you choose, can take off head, find good performance shop and have 3 angle grind and undercut on valves. If valves are in good shape, will cost $120-$150 or there abouts. Spend another couple hundred cleaning up the air flow restrictions in head (port). This should put you in the mid 50hp. THIS IS IMPORTANT: Watch some old pullers in your area and see which brand of tires hook best and get a set. Don't have to be new, look for 1/2 worn out. Get old timer that you trust to help fabricate weight brackets according to your local rules. Suggest you keep the 3 point hitch intact. Hitch is really heavy, and you can save an easy 250 pounds by removing it, but then you loose the use of your tractor on the farm. Make sure drawbar that you use is adjustable and has -0- flex. Run 4500 to 6500 and kick.... If someone spends 4-5 thousand on engine they will beat you 8 out 10 times. You'll bear those tractors that are legal. And those 2 out of 10 wins will be sweet.

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jb4020

11-11-2007 16:01:35




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 Re: MF 65 pulling in reply to jb4020, 11-11-2007 09:28:38  
i believe its a 1961. Maybe i can find a place that lets newer tractors run. Its almost if not exactly the same as the '57 mf 65. Is there anything easy that can be done to the continental engine to up the power and what weight class should i go up to?



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local puller

11-11-2007 14:29:58




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 Re: MF 65 pulling in reply to jb4020, 11-11-2007 09:28:38  
That tractor is probably too new, more clubs pull 1959 and older, their are a few exceptions



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Charles E. McNelly III

11-11-2007 13:41:31




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 Re: MF 65 pulling in reply to jb4020, 11-11-2007 09:28:38  
A good friend of mine has been pulling one for a couple of years now. All I can recommend is go for the most compression you can build and watch the boys cry. Good luck,
Charles



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